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June 2018

Home2018 (Page 5)

  Porta Caeli came about as the result of a wine-loving Turkish family’s quest to prove that Turkish wine can compete with established Old World wine. The winery and spa hotel are located in the village of Ecebat where Thrace meets the Aegean. While the majority of Turkey experiences a hot and continental climate, this region is very different. The harmony of a maritime climate, surrounding forests, and breezes has attracted many winemakers including Porta Caeli, Suvla, Ergenekon, Doluca, Chateau Kalpak, and more. With the notable exception of Suvla, most winemakers in the region, Porta Caeli included, work exclusively with international grape varieties. In the case of Porta Caeli, specifically Bordeaux varieties. They believe that their terroir

  I’ve been to Greece a couple times now but it wasn’t until my second visit (last May) that I discovered Greek wine. The very first one was the Thalassitis Assyrtiko from Gaia (pronounced ghye) Wines. Now, a year later and another visit to Greece in, I got to visit one of Gaia’s wineries. While the Thalassitis is from Gaia’s Santorini winery, not the one in Nemea I visited, I got to taste their Assyrtikos all the same.  Leon Karatsalos and Yiannis Paraskevopoulos founded Gaia on Santorini in 1994. Located in Monolithos on the east coast of the island, the winery is a repurposed tomato processing plant, a remnant of

  Kuzeybağ remains one of those semi mysterious wineries. I’ve had their wine a few times, seen them a different events in Istanbul, and even met them. Despite all that I do not yet know their story. What I do know is that the winery makes a killer Öküzgözü. Anatolia makes up the bulk of Turkey. Simplified (perhaps slightly too much) if it’s not the European side of the country (including part of Istanbul, Thrace, and the Marmara) it’s Anatolia. For wine purposes, Anatolia is then further divided into Eastern, Central, and Southeast districts. Kuzeybağ’s home is Eastern Anatolia in an area called Elazığ (El-AH-zih). Elazığ in turn is the home of the

  Even if you live in Turkey and/or are an aficionado of Turkish wine you can be forgiven for not knowing about Vinolus. Those in the know will tell you that Vinolus wines are well worth the hunt. I first encountered this maker at Solera, my favorite Istanbul wine bar. I’m always attracted to different and interesting labels. So when I saw a Turkish wine decorated by a haloed angel I had to try it. A Journey Towards Authenticity This little gem of a winery is tucked away in the wilds of Kayseri (near the famous Cappadocia region). The brainchild of owner Oluş Molu, Vinolus (vin + Oluş = Vinolus), the winery

  Vinkara Winery, located in Kalecik outside the Turkish capital Ankara is either the “smallest of the big” wineries or the “largest of the small”. It depends entirely on your perspective. Ardıç Gürsel became interested in wine while studying abroad where she was used to drinking good wine. She always wondered, where are the Turkish grapes? When she returned to Turkey in the 80s she told her family that she wanted to make wine and they thought she was crazy. Then a few decades later her father announced that he was going to open a winery. Not without her he wouldn’t! And so Vinkara winery was born. Dedication to Native Turkish Varieties It is my absolute

  My tour of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc discovery continued with Villa Maria. And what a fantastic story it has. Villa Maria started with George Fistonich and five acres of land in Auckland. Now, five decades later, Villa Maria encompasses vineyards in Auckland, Marlborough, Hawkes Bay, and Gisborne and stands as an icon of New Zealand wine. In addition to their viniculture, Villa Maria secured its icon status through its sustainable grape growing practices. A member of the Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand; 30% of company owned vineyards are managed organically, and some 500 sheep graze in the Hawke’s Bay vineyards where they control grass growth and provide natural fertilizer. Villa Maria Cellar

  I cannot count the number of times I’ve said that I don’t like rose wine. It is many. There have been a few here in Turkey though that, while they won’t make me a rose lover, I will happy say are very nice. Arda makes one such wine. Arda Vineyards sits a short drive outside Edirne in northern Thrace; equidistant from both the Bulgarian and Greek borders. The winery defines boutique. The owners, the Saç family, do more than merely oversee operations. Yavus Saç obtained a master’s degree in wine history, recently sat the WSET 3 exams, and with his wife Bahar oversees the running of the vineyard and winery.  They

  Yedi Bilgeler (also known as 7Bilgeler) is one of my absolute favorite Turkish wineries. Due in large part to this wine, the Pythagoras. I previously reviewed the 2013 and now it’s time for the 2014. But before we get to the wine, the winery! The Seven Sages I recently had the great fortune to visit Yedi Bilgeler with my good friend and writing partner, Istanbites. We were privileged enough to spend time there with founder and owner Bilge Yamen. Bilge bey became interested in wine while at university. He was interested in history and philosophy and how wine played such a huge role in both. He believes that history, philosophy, and jazz are like wine:

  The Telavi Marani Rkatsiteli was another great find at Rind. I’m seeing Georgian wine in more and more shops here in Istanbul. However Rind (Kadıköy) has by far the best prices. For this bottle I paid only 39 TL; an unheard of low price for an import! Rkatsi-what? Rkatsiteli is the most ubiquitous of white Georgian grapes. It also has the scariest name for foreigners. Vintners use it to make all styles of wine: steel tank, oaked, or as an amber wine made in qvevri. It can also be made into sweet or fortified wines but I’ve not run across any of those. Native to Imereti, Rkatsiteli is grown widely across

  Together with Corvus, Amadeus, and Çamlıbağ; Talay is one of Turkey’s Aegean region wineries located on the island of Bozcaada. In 1948, the Talay brothers Necati, Hayati, and Sebati established their family-run winery. During the early years they focused their attention on local varieties Çavuş, Vasilaki, Karalahna, Karasakız (Kuntra). In 1999 they planted European grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Shiraz, and Tempranillo; as well as adding to their indigenous grape roster with Kalecik Karası, Öküzgözü, Boğazkere, and Narince. While the latter four Turkish grapes are fairly familiar Çavuş, Vasilaki, Karalahna, and Karasakız may not be. But these varieties have grown on Bozcaada for centuries. The Island of