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Wine Reviews

HomeWine Reviews (Page 31)

  Shortly before Christmas I saw that my local shop, La Cave, would soon be stocking a new wine from Kayra. Kayra might be one of the giant wineries here in Turkey but their wine, especially the mid range and top shelf, is solid. Then I saw it was a Semillon and I immediately contacted La Cave to ask him to put aside two bottles for me.  While Semillon may not have as long a history in Turkey as say, Merlot in northern Italy, it has grown here for close to 100 years now. Considered by many to be a traditional, if not native, variety, Semillon gained popularity here early

  [caption id="attachment_16139" align="alignleft" width="225"] Pürneşe red label[/caption] Pürneşe is a semi-new series from Vino Dessera. Occupying a place in the winery's mid-range line up, the Pürneşe series includes a red blend and a blush. I have had them both but it was the blush that really stood out for me. Vino Dessera brings in grapes from vineyards across Turkey. For the Pürneşe Blush, they used Çalkarası and Kalecik Karası from Denizli in the western Aegean. Kalecik Karası we frequently see as both varietal and blended rosés. Very few wineries really work with Çalkarası though. The exception to that has been Paşaeli and it's nice to see other wineries, like Vino Dessera,

  7Bilgeler (or Yedi Bilgeler as you prefer) has long produced wines I've liked and admired. My one issue was that all the wines were international grape-based. No longer! The southern Aegean-based winery has released two* new varietal native grape wines under a new 'Vindemia' label: an Emir and Kalecik Karası. *7Bilgeler has used small amounts of Kalecik Karası for a while in blends and has now also released a Chardonnay-Emir blend under different labels. 7Bilgeler Vindemia Defne Emir, 2020 While I don't particularly love it when wineries drag grapes across the country, I must admit that Emir planted outside of Central Anatolia's Cappadocia region just doesn't work. At least not so

  Like the Likya Öküzgözü I was crushing on last week, Saranta winery also grows this grape outside its traditional home of Elazığ. Unlike Likya, Saranta is not based in the Mediterranean region, but in Turkey's Thrace. Specifically, the northern area of Kırklareli. Despite being on opposite sides of the country, the two regions do share a few features, namely elevation, and cool(er) growing climates. Although Kırklareli definitely has the Mediterranean beat there! Spread along the foot of the Istranca Massif, this is a place with cold, snowy winters. Thanks to those mountains though, it's also a place of highly diverse and often quartz and mineral-rich soils.  Saranta has grown

  My introduction to Hungarian wine occurred on a work trip to Budapest in 2004. Budapest is a beautiful city I have since fallen in love with. But I felt strange in this wintery, new country where I didn’t speak the language. The wine, a syrupy, low quality Tokaji sold in the tourist shops. A memory quickly forgotten. More than 10 years later I would find myself in Hungary again for work. This time, I was not alone and was sequestered with colleagues in a spider infested hotel on Lake Balaton. The hotel food was terrible, the conference not going well, and we were at one another’s throats. Then someone

  When I'm in Athens, my friend M and I play a game. We stand in front of the wine shelves at his local grocery and pick out a few bottles with grape names unfamiliar to us. We've had some massive failures doing this. Once we got a wine that tasted like liquid perfume soap. That bottle went straight down the sink. Even though it may well be just an enormously bad example of that particular grape, we're now terrified of it. On the flip side, we have discovered a number of new (to us) varieties we like quite a lot. While I typically veer towards Greece's white grapes, I've

  The bulk of Öküzgözü in Turkey grows in the grape's homeland of Elazığ in Eastern Anatolia. The most widely-planted Turkish black grape sometimes gets trucked hundreds of kilometers from Elazığ to other parts of the country for production. However, it's not the most widely-planted grape for nothing.  Öküzgözü now grows in, I dare saw, all eight wine regions. It has proven to be adaptable to a variety of soil types and climates. I have enjoyed trying Öküzgözü from different regions to see how these adaptations reflect in wine.  Likya Şarapları is one of Turkey's Mediterranean wineries. Although you wouldn't know it when you visit! Located in Elmalı, it sits quite

  Given my recent complain about the current trend for blanc de noir Papazkarası and the lack of good red wines made with it, I thought it was time to take a look at Chamlija's newest blend, PaPiKa.  Chamlija is one of the few wineries really paying attention to this grape. The winery produces a handful of wines with Papazkarası (or Papaskarası as it's sometimes spelled) including varietals like the Kara Sevda and blends. Chamlija also produces the grape in all colors possible. This new wine takes its name directly from the blend: PA for Papazkarası (35%) PI for Pinot Noir (35%) KA for Kalecik Karası (30%) Chamlija PaPiKa, 2019 The blend aged

  The Urla district of İzmir in Turkey's Aegean region has become a hotbed of trendy wineries. Many belong to the Urla Bağ Yolu (the easiest wine route to navigate). Even those that do not though are not so far off the path. The newest winery to open its doors is Hus Şarapçılık. Founded in 2017 by Juan Pablo Diaz Leon and Ceylan Ertörer Diaz Leon, Hus Şarapçılık is a family venture that blends the Chilean wine background of Juan Pablo's family, and the agricultural history belong to Ceylan's family. When I talk about the Turkish-Greek population exchange of the 1920s, it's usually about the Greeks leaving Turkey (as that directly