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Wine Reviews

HomeWine Reviews (Page 63)

  Urlice Vineyards is one of Turkey’s special boutique wineries. The husband/wife team Reha and Bilge Benisü Öğünlü oversee everything from vineyards to cellar on their own. The Making of a Dream Bilge and Reha lived in the US for over 15 years. While there they developed a love for wine and gastronomy.  Her parents had a small vineyard where they learned the ropes a bit during visits. Between those visits and their wine tours in the US their love of wine grew prompting them to start their own vineyard when they returned to Turkey. Since beginning planting in 2002, Bilge and Reha have built a beautiful winery and make wines every bit as

  Diren Winery, located in the northern part of Anatolia in the Black Sea region is one of Turkey’s older wineries. Sourcing grapes predominately from its vineyards in Tokat, Diren has been making wine for 60 years. Diren was founded in 1958 by Mustafa Vasfi Diren who took his love for wine and transformed it into a family legacy. Largely self-educated in winemaking, he visited vineyards in Europe to learn their techniques and collaborated with the Agriculture Department of Ankara University. He continued to learn and perfect the crafts of viticulture and vinification until 1985, when his son Ali Diren took over the reins at the winery. Diren now takes great pride in

  Previously I have reviewed the Vino Dessera 190 2014 vintage. So it seems I’m moving backwards now with the 190 2013! Making Walnuts into Wine Vino Dessera was established in 2012, but to understand the full story of these fields we need to jump a little further back. When the owner’s first grandchild was born, abiding by a very thoughtful Anatolian tradition, he planted approximately 600 walnut trees along the green slopes of Thrace. And, as it turns out, he never stopped. Motivated partially by self-competition, when his second grandchild was born, he planted wine grapes in 2000. And, so too Vino Dessera was born. Today, the vineyard is a family-run operation growing both

  Last summer was the summer of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc for me. We get a surprising number of them here in Istanbul. Sadly they all have ridiculous mark ups but some things are worth the exaggerated sticker price. Such as the Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. David Hohnen established Cloudy Bay in 1985. At the time he was one of the first five wine makers to venture into Marlborough. Of course Marlborough has risen since then to become New Zealand’s leading wine region and is now synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc. Cloudy Bay’s vineyards represent the essence of the region and embody it in wine. Grapes from the Wairau Valley bring the punch and

  Porta Caeli came about as the result of a wine-loving Turkish family’s quest to prove that Turkish wine can compete with established Old World wine. The winery and spa hotel are located in the village of Ecebat where Thrace meets the Aegean. While the majority of Turkey experiences a hot and continental climate, this region is very different. The harmony of a maritime climate, surrounding forests, and breezes has attracted many winemakers including Porta Caeli, Suvla, Ergenekon, Doluca, Chateau Kalpak, and more. With the notable exception of Suvla, most winemakers in the region, Porta Caeli included, work exclusively with international grape varieties. In the case of Porta Caeli, specifically Bordeaux varieties. They believe that their terroir

  I’ve been to Greece a couple times now but it wasn’t until my second visit (last May) that I discovered Greek wine. The very first one was the Thalassitis Assyrtiko from Gaia (pronounced ghye) Wines. Now, a year later and another visit to Greece in, I got to visit one of Gaia’s wineries. While the Thalassitis is from Gaia’s Santorini winery, not the one in Nemea I visited, I got to taste their Assyrtikos all the same.  Leon Karatsalos and Yiannis Paraskevopoulos founded Gaia on Santorini in 1994. Located in Monolithos on the east coast of the island, the winery is a repurposed tomato processing plant, a remnant of

  Kuzeybağ remains one of those semi mysterious wineries. I’ve had their wine a few times, seen them a different events in Istanbul, and even met them. Despite all that I do not yet know their story. What I do know is that the winery makes a killer Öküzgözü. Anatolia makes up the bulk of Turkey. Simplified (perhaps slightly too much) if it’s not the European side of the country (including part of Istanbul, Thrace, and the Marmara) it’s Anatolia. For wine purposes, Anatolia is then further divided into Eastern, Central, and Southeast districts. Kuzeybağ’s home is Eastern Anatolia in an area called Elazığ (El-AH-zih). Elazığ in turn is the home of the

  Even if you live in Turkey and/or are an aficionado of Turkish wine you can be forgiven for not knowing about Vinolus. Those in the know will tell you that Vinolus wines are well worth the hunt. I first encountered this maker at Solera, my favorite Istanbul wine bar. I’m always attracted to different and interesting labels. So when I saw a Turkish wine decorated by a haloed angel I had to try it. A Journey Towards Authenticity This little gem of a winery is tucked away in the wilds of Kayseri (near the famous Cappadocia region). The brainchild of owner Oluş Molu, Vinolus (vin + Oluş = Vinolus), the winery

  Vinkara Winery, located in Kalecik outside the Turkish capital Ankara is either the “smallest of the big” wineries or the “largest of the small”. It depends entirely on your perspective. Ardıç Gürsel became interested in wine while studying abroad where she was used to drinking good wine. She always wondered, where are the Turkish grapes? When she returned to Turkey in the 80s she told her family that she wanted to make wine and they thought she was crazy. Then a few decades later her father announced that he was going to open a winery. Not without her he wouldn’t! And so Vinkara winery was born. Dedication to Native Turkish Varieties It is my absolute

  My tour of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc discovery continued with Villa Maria. And what a fantastic story it has. Villa Maria started with George Fistonich and five acres of land in Auckland. Now, five decades later, Villa Maria encompasses vineyards in Auckland, Marlborough, Hawkes Bay, and Gisborne and stands as an icon of New Zealand wine. In addition to their viniculture, Villa Maria secured its icon status through its sustainable grape growing practices. A member of the Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand; 30% of company owned vineyards are managed organically, and some 500 sheep graze in the Hawke’s Bay vineyards where they control grass growth and provide natural fertilizer. Villa Maria Cellar