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September 2019

Home2019 (Page 4)

  Umurbey arguably makes one of the best Sauvignon Blancs in Turkey. While the winery's proprietor, Umur bey (Mr. Umur) does not want to be known as a white wine maker; the winery's Sauvignon Blanc is its most recognized wine. It is not, however, the only white wine. Many site Semillon as (one of) the first foreign grape planted in Turkey. Plantings, which remain concentrated on Turkey's European side from Kırklareli down through the Gallipoli peninsula, go back as far as the early twentieth century. Varietal Semillon wines are still elusive, the exception being Saranta's Chateau Murou Semillon. Winemakers mostly use the grape in blended white wines, like this Sauvignon

  It's been a little while since I've written about Chamlija's wines. While not writing about them, I certainly haven't stopped drinking Chamlija's wines. Or thinking about them. In my opinion, other than guaranteed quality and sometimes amazingly beautiful wines, Chamlija's two biggest contributions to the Turkish wine industry are the winery's willingness to experiment, and its championship of native Turkish grapes; especially Papaskarası. Moreover, when these two attributes combine, the genius that results.  At once both clinical and adventurous, Chamlija winery bring s anew level of experimentation to the Turkish wine industry. While great believers in what terroir brings to a wine, therefore planting the same varieties in multiple

  It was while studying agriculture in Germany that Gaye Özcan, proprietor and winemaker at Nif Bağları, learned about the grape Solaris. Developed in 1975 in Germany, Solaris is a hybrid grape resulting from a crossing of Merzling and GM 6493 (which itself is a crossing of Zarya Severa and Muscat Ottonel). Early ripening and disease resistant, Solaris can reach high sugar levels even in cool climates with little sunshine making it increasingly popular in Europe's more northern countries. Having gained an appreciation for the grape and its viticultural properties, Özcan ensured the planting of some vines in her Aegean vineyards. Currently she uses the grape only as a blending partner

  To those for whom it's a surprise that wine is made in Turkey, it will come as an even bigger surprise to learn that all styles of wine are made here. We have all the colors (including amber), dry, off-dry, fully sweet, sparkling, and even fortified. Being a lover of sweet wines myself I'm always on the lookout for a new quality dessert wine. One day I noticed that my wine shop had two different vintages of LA Wine's Passito on the shelf and though it would be fun to try them side by side. But first, what is passito wine? The answer lies in the name. In Italian,

  Solera is my favorite wine bar in Istanbul. Frankly it's the only real wine bar in Istanbul. The staff here are friendly, largely knowledgeable about wine, and have wine service more or less down. Putting them head and shoulders above even many of the high-end restaurants and hotels whose staff have no clue. Owner Süleyman Er approaches wine differently than many restaurant owners. For him, wine isn’t a business, it’s his life. Süleyman doesn’t just own Solera, he also has his own vineyards in Tekirdağ. Twenty years ago while working in the restaurant business he fell in love with wine. After studying to become a sommelier he traveled extensively

  I used to travel a great deal for my job. One such trip, in 2012, took me to Lebanon. On my one free in Beirut I went on a day tour to Anjar, Baalbeck, and Chateau Ksara. As this was in my days of casual wine enjoyment I appreciated the trip to the winery but not to the levels of geeky delight I would achieve today. For me at the time, Lebanese wine was merely a curiosity and a fun souvenir to bring home. How differently I would do things should I ever return! [caption id="attachment_13195" align="alignleft" width="449"] Baalbeck[/caption] Chateau Ksara, one of the oldest wineries in Lebanon, carries on

  The Aegean island, Bozcaada - formerly Tenedos-has a long history of winemaking. So long in fact, it rated mention in The Iliad. Today this storied island, now in Turkish hands, produces far less wine than it did in history. Some of the wineries, like relatives Talay and Çamlıbağ, also have long histories. Not ancient Greece long, but beginning of the Turkish Republic long. Some, like Corvus and Amadeus MMX are new comers. Amadeus MMX, as its name might indicate, is owned by an Austrian family; one that came to Turkey in the 60s and stayed. The current head of the winery, Oliver Gareis, was born here. While the family

  The Zero Kilometer food trend that began a few years ago involves restaurants that source ingredients from their immediate area. In many cases this often means not only getting produce and other products from local farmers but growing and producing everything in an onsite restaurant garden. This trend gained popularity for a variety of reasons: it supports local agriculture, ingredients are always fresh and in season, and because the resulting food both expresses a sense of place and is appropriate for that place. It was this sense of locality that spoke to Türgay Gümüş when he founded his winery, Buradan, in the coastal village Çeşme outside Izmir. "Buradan" is

  After an exciting day exploring Tokaj with Taste Hungary I fell into bed at my hotel. A good night's sleep was definitely in order to prepare me for the next day's tour. My Somló tour guide Sebastian greeted me bright and early the next morning with these amazing, buttery, savory pogácsa. Imagine a scone and a biscuit had a baby. And you ate the baby because it was delicious, buttery goodness. The day already off to a good start, we hopped in the car to head west to the Balaton region and Somló Hill. The Essence of Somló It might be Hungary's smallest wine district but lack of hectarage does not

  I joke that my research into Turkish wine essentially involved drinking from the bottom of the shelf up. But honestly that's actually what I did. After being more than a year in Turkey I still was not convinced that the wine here was especially good. At that time I was still pretty near the bottom of the shelf and was only doing my "research" halfheartedly. One night, I paired a semi-sweet Bornova Misketi with a spicy Chinese dry pepper chicken. Apparently I thought I knew better how to cook than the person who made the recipe. Spoiler alert, I didn't. The recipe called for me to saute Chinese peppercorns