Chamlija, the Champion of Papaskarası
It’s been a little while since I’ve written about Chamlija’s wines. While not writing about them, I certainly haven’t stopped drinking Chamlija’s wines. Or thinking about them. In my opinion, other than guaranteed quality and sometimes amazingly beautiful wines, Chamlija’s two biggest contributions to the Turkish wine industry are the winery’s willingness to experiment, and its championship of native Turkish grapes; especially Papaskarası. Moreover, when these two attributes combine, the genius that results.
At once both clinical and adventurous, Chamlija winery bring s anew level of experimentation to the Turkish wine industry. While great believers in what terroir brings to a wine, therefore planting the same varieties in multiple places, they don’t ignore the science. Instead, they carefully match grape variety clones with rootstock to encourage the best outcome from the combination of terroir and grape. The winery also plants one of the widest selections of grapes in Turkey; cultivating not only several Turkish varieties and expected international grapes (e.g. Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, etc) but goes the extra step by introducing some more unusual varieties to Turkey like Mavrud, Caladoc, Albraniño, Riesling, Assyrtiko, and I think Xinomavro (or maybe it was Agiorgitiko? I expect Mustafa bey will see this and correct me!).
Chamlija’s experimentation doesn’t end in the vineyard. In the winery they explore things like skin contact white wine, no additives, while bunch pressing, and more.
The Pope’s Black
Papaskarası (or Papazkarası as it’s spelled in Wine Grapes) means “the pope’s black.” As the story goes, when the Eastern Roman Empire’s pope ruled from Constantinople, his favorite wines were made from this grape. However it came by its name, Papaskarası has been around for a while.
It is believed that Papaskarası resulted from a natural crossing of Balkan black grape Prokupac and Romanian white grape Alba Imputotato. Prokupac has apparently been around sine the 5th century give or take but no one’s pin pointed when Papaskarası came along. Although presumably after the 5th century.
Several wineries are working with Papaskarası (Chamlija, Arda, Edrine, and Melen) but Chamlija is best 
poised to cultivate this Thracian grape. Native to Kırklareli and the decomposed granite soils of the Strandja Mountains (where Chamlia’s vineyards are), the grape generally gives low yields of small bunches.
Chamlija Papaskarası Blanc de Noir 2017 Tasting Notes
Bright lemon in the glass, this blanc de noir version of Papaskarası began with delicate tropical and citrus aromas. On the palate white peach and splashes of lemon joined the tropical fruits along with some bitter pithiness. Lively acid, medium body, 13% abv.
Chamlija Papaskarası Blanc de Noir Fumé 2015 Tasting Notes
Usually oak aged white wine is not my bag. However, if they were all like this delightful number from Chamlija I would own all the bags in the land. Aged for 10 months in used French barrels, the Papaskarası Blanc de Noir Fumé retained its brilliant but pale lemon color. You know how Viognier has that little bit of sexy going on? Albeit entirely different aromas, but the nose here had that quality with juicy peaches, tropical fruits, and crème anglaise. Absolutely delightful on the palate with fresh and lively acidity, white peaches, peach skin, mango, and hints of cream and butter. Beautifully balanced with 12.5% abv, this definitely fell into the dangerously delicious category for me.
Sadly, I think Chamlija has stopped producing this. At least I haven’t seen it anywhere for a while.
Chamlija Rosé de Strandja 2017 Tasting Notes
Unusually for Turkish rosés, this intensely pink rosé aged for four months in the barrel. Fruit forward on the nose with sticky strawberry jam and peach followed by whiffs of dried rose petals, herbs, and bubble gum. The palate displayed similar fruity and bubble gum flavors with rounded acid, medium body, and 13% alcohol.
Chamlija Papaskarası 2015 Tasting Notes
The first red Papaskarası, this wine was aged solely in stainless steel in order to highlight the grape’s natural characteristics and flavor profile. Smashed wild strawberries, cranberries, and sour cherries complimented by dried rose petals and pepper on the nose. Medium-light bodied with 12% alcohol and a slightly sharp acidity accompanied by bright fruit flavors made for a wine that would not be inappropriate to chill.
Note: I heard this is available in the US. A friend of mine in DC got hold of a bottle through DCanter.
Chamlija Papaskarası Reserva 2015 Tasting Notes
Aged for seven months in French oak before being bottled (unfined and unfiltered as per Chamlija’s norm), Chamlija’s reserve Papaskarası displayed some deeper flavors than the unoaked version. Stewed fruit and sweet spices both in the nose and on the palate. Slightly sandy tannins and a more tame acidity than the unoaked version with 12.5% alcohol.
Chamlija Kara Sevda 2016 Tasting Notes
One of my favorite iterations of Papaskarası (from Chamlija or anyone else), the Kara Sevda was whole bunch pressed, aged 12 months in stainless steel, and was both unfiltered and unfined prior to 
bottling. The resulting wine had a beautiful nose full of purple flowers, freshly tilled earth, cracked black peppercorns, and leather. On the palate, low tannins and a silky mouthfeel carried just loads of black pepper and dirty strawberries.
But you know, good dirty strawberries. Like you’re picking fresh berries, drop a couple, blow off the worst of the dirt, then pop them in your mouth. No? Was that just my childhood. You all missed out.
Medium bodied with 13.5% alcohol, this is a killer wine.