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White Wine

HomeWhite Wine (Page 33)

  Taking its name from the Syriac word for “peace,” Shiluh is Turkey's largest commercial Assyrian-style winery. Based in Midyat about 100 km from Mardin in the extreme southeast of Turkey, Shiluh (which also goes by Süryani Şarabı) carries on the winemaking tradition of Christian Assyrians. But in a modernized way. Until recently, Assyrian wine remained largely a family by family project. People sourced grapes from home gardens and made traditional wines at home to share with friends and family. Then in 2008, wishing to share this part of their culture outside the community, members of three Assyrian families: Gabriel, Aktaş, and Aslan, created a commercial winery to produce such wine. Shiluh

  Kırklareli-based winery Arcadia is not alone in cultivating Sauvignon Blanc. This French varietal maintains a spot as a major favorite here in Turkey. What sets it apart is the Arcadia 333. The sexiest wine in Turkey (but more on why later!). While many turn up their nose to sweet wines, I staunchly remain a fan. Turkey offers a fair number of semi and sweet wines. Most of them are made with late harvest grapes while three producers, Corvus, LA Wines, and Gemici make passito-style sweet wines. Only one, Arcadia, makes a sweet wine with botrytis grapes. Something the winery never anticipated doing and, like all those who gamble with

  Yapıncak is arguably Turkey's most up and coming native white grape right now. As a general champion of lesser-known Turkish grapes, Yapıncak has been part of Paşaeli's collection for a while now. The winery features a simple (but elegant) Yapıncak, a skin contact amber that frustratingly I haven't been able to get my hands on, and an 'old vine' (more on the in the future). Popular Gallipoli-based producer Suvla makes three wines with this grape as well: a simple table wine, a lovely oaked reserve, and a traditional method sparkling wine.  Now mega producer Sevilen has joined the ranks. Sevilen's history with this grape is just that, a history.

  One of Turkey's most widely available native grapes is Bornova Misketi. It is, however, not the only type of Muscat grape to be found in Turkey. Muscats of Hamberg and Alexandria, Muscat Giallo/Gelber Muskateller, and Golden Muscat also pop up here and there. Aside from Amadeus' Gelber Muskateller, the majority of these get used in blends. Until now. This year Vino Dessera released a 100% Muscat of Alexandria wine. And it's a winner. Vino Dessera Alexandria Muscat 2018 Tasting Notes: Star bright, pale lemon in the glass, the wine was practically and English garden in the nose. Highly perfumed aromas of roses, orange blossom, bergamont jam, melon, honeydew, and honeycomb rose

  I drink a heck of a lot of wine on a pretty regular basis. A few years I started keeping a spreadsheet to track what I've had and what I have on hand. This helps me avoid double buying something I've already tasted. There are moments when I think that my tongue has become numb to certain flavors and grapes here. However, sometimes a wine comes along that leaves such an indelible impression that I could never forget it. For me, one such wine has been the Vinolus Roussanne. Roussanne is uncommon in Turkey. I know only two producers working with it: Suvla which makes a traditional blend with Marsanne,

  Each time I begin to explore a country's wine; there has been one wine that sticks in my mind as the one that made me think: okay, this country makes good wine! For Turkey that was Prodom's flagship blend and Vino Dessera's 190. For Greece it was a Seméli Moschofilero. Six-seven years ago during my first trip to Greece I drank whatever wine got plunked down on the table. It was not awesome. But at least it was better than the "dog killer" wines I was able to access in my conservative outer Istanbul neighborhood. Since then I've been to Greece several times during which I've attended small

  I have chosen to tackle the Trakya Bağ Rotası (Thrace Wine Route) last because I find it the most frustrating. [caption id="attachment_11330" align="alignleft" width="267"] Please note the map is old; couldn't find an updated version[/caption] The Trakya Bağ Rotası was the first of all the established wine routes in Turkey. Membership includes wineries Like Arda in upper Thrace in Edirne (near the Bulgarian/Greek borders) all the way to Suvla at the tippy tip of the Gallipoli Peninsula. Technically, all these wineries are indeed in Thrace. Geographically anyway. And yet. Edirne and neighboring districts Kırklareli and Tekirdağ are significantly more northerly, colder, and snowier. While Tekirdağ based wineries (such as Chateau

  Bozcaada based winery Corvus is one of the most recognized names in wine in Turkey. When Reşit Söley decided to give up architecture for winemaking, he did it with a meticulousness and considerable energy. Söley threw himself into regenerating old island vineyards and planting new plots. Now, nearly 20 years after founding Corvus, Söley makes a wide range of wines with both local and international grapes. Of his wines, my favorites are the ones that blend the local and international grapes; like the Blend Bianco. Normally I'd have stayed away from this one (Chardonnay + oak and all) but it came highly recommended by my friend Başak of Empathia Creative. Corvus

  Undeniably the smallest with only four members, the Güney İzmir (South Izmir) route even shares some of its members with the İç Ege Bağ Rotası. Its small size in no way detracts from the joys to be found at each winery though. Güney İzmir Bağ Rotası Yes, this is the smallest of all the routes (and includes two repeat wineries) but I think it's one of the most culturally interesting. As far as what (else) there is to do along the route that is! Closer to the top of the route lies Metropolis. No, not the home of the Daily Planet and Superman! The ancient city is located, ironically, near Yeniköy

  In Part One of my Turkish Wine Routes series I covered the Urla Bağ Yolu. Now for Part Two, we're moving east from the Aegean coastal district of Urla to Turkey's more inland Aegean areas with the İç Ege Bağ Rotası. İç Ege Bağ Rotası The İç Ege Bağ Rotası (literally: inner Aegean vineyard route) is a fairly recent invention. At least it is the newest of Turkey's four wine routes. The route covers a large area; some 11,700 square kilometers. So says Google. It is 200 kilometers from the winery closest to the Aegean (Nif Bağları) to the farthest inland (Küp Şarapçılık) and another 200+ kilometers from Kastro Tireli