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Mexico and Turkey Have More in Common Than You Might Think

 

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At least their wine industries do. While I haven’t had the chance to deeply explore Mexican wine, a little research has turned up some parallels between their industry and Turkey’s. They do say that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, hopefully I don’t do too much harm here. 

Mexico and Turkey: Cut From the Same Vine

Appellations

Let’s start by looking at rules, regulations, appellations, and so on. Many countries around the world have some sort of wine appellation system in place: AVAs in the US, PDO/PGI (broadly) in Europe, GI in Australia, New Zealand, and Japan, WO in South Africa, etc. Mexico has no such system. Neither (with one exception) does Turkey. As neither country has a legally-defined classification system, it follows that neither have much in the way of rules. Certainly there are some, the highest ABV a table wine can have for example, but this pales mightily in comparison to the EU’s system that tightly controls by region which grapes can be used, styles of wine, farming, and the minutia of how wine can be made.

Both Are Relatively Unknown Wine Industries

A lot of that has to do with production and export. Or, more accurately, the lack thereof. Mexico produces a mere 419,000 hectoliters* annually, making it the world’s 35th most wine-producing company. Turkey makes a bit more than that with 648,000 hectoliters, putting it in 28th place.

Neither of them export a great deal of wine though. Mexico exports slightly more with 5% going abroad compared to Turkey’s 3%. Since Turkey does make a bit more wine though, that difference isn’t all that great when you translate it to actual amount. While most of Mexico’s exports go to the US, it has a broad footprint with wine going to almost 40 countries around the globe. While I couldn’t find a list for Turkey, I do know that wines go to multiple countries in Europe, the UK, Australia, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Canada, and the US. 

Even visitors to the countries might be forgiven for not discovering the wine. Both countries are far more well-known for other alcohol, tequila and mescal in Mexico and rakı in Turkey. Wine consumption is generally low at 1.2 liters per capita in Mexico and just 1 liter in Turkey.

Taxes

Taxes are a scourge with which both countries struggle. In Mexico, wines are taxed at 16% IVA (VAT for the rest of us) plus a luxury tax, IEPS, varying from 26.5% to 30%. In Turkey, VAT on wine is 20%. Our luxury tax amount, ÖTV, increases twice annually and is a fixed amount, not a percentage. 

L.A. Cetto

L.A. Cetto’s story started generations before the founding family arrived in Mexico. It dates back seven generations to Francesco Antonio Cetto, his son Francesco Alloisio, and grandson Luigi who made wine in Selva di Lévico, Italy. Moving across an ocean to a new continent in 1924 barely put a pause on the family’s winemaking. For almost 100 years now, the Cetto family has been a leading influence in Mexican wine. 

Angelo Cetto, Luigi’s son established L.A. Cetto in Baja in 1928. He passed his passion for winemaking to his own son Luis Agustín, who passed it to his. Today, Luis Alberto runs the show, representing the seventh generation of the Cetto family to make wine. 

With something like 600 hectares (1,500 acres), L.A. Cetto is the largest winery in the Valle de Guadalupe. Possibly all of Mexico, producing 70% of the country’s wine. That’s insane.

Valle de Guadalupe 

If you’ve heard of or had Mexican wine, it was probably related to Valle de Guadalupe. This hugely agricultural region in Baja California, Mexico is the country’s largest wine producing region. 

Grapes (and other crops) planted in the valley benefit from the Mediterranean climate, moderating effects of the nearby Pacific Ocean in the west and the Gulf of California in the east, and hills that block strong winds. Vines grow in sandy, sandy loam, granite, clay, and gravelly soils on plains between 300 and 380 meters.

While the nearby bodies of water help moderate summer’s extreme heat, they don’t help with water access. Drought is a constant concern and many growers use drip irrigation systems. The main grapes grown here include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc.

You can learn more about Baja Wine Country, its wineries, tours, and events from a lot of travel and wine bloggers…weirdly enough, a Mexican travel insurance company seems to offer some of the most comprehensive information about the wineries. 

L.A. Cetto Chenin Blanc, 2021

Being the largest producer in the region and possibly country, L.A. Cetto’s wines are also what you’ll likely find exported. Which is how I got this bottle, having it bought it from a US retailer.

I couldn’t find any winemaking notes on this, so let’s all assume it was standard white wine making, no oak or extended lees aging. Very pleasant nose. Nothing overly exuberant, yet it showed a charming promise of tropical and orchard fruits. A touch of residual sugar contributed to weight and roundness on the palate. Despite all the descriptions of balance and crisp acidity, I found it leaned more on the flabby side. Although, who am I to judge as I do too? Sweet and juicy fruit flavors with pineapple, mango, apricots, and orange. 

Off-dry isn’t my go-to style. However, I wanted a Mexican wine and this was the one I could get. So, I made the residual sugar work for me because for sure I was going to pair this. I made a feast of oxtail barbacoa tacos, chiles relleños, guacamole, elote salad, and spicy shrimp ceviche. And, while it had nothing to do with the wine, churros with Mexican hot chocolate for dipping and Mexican coffee for dessert. 

If They Can’t Come to Us…

From what I can tell, there might actually be a wider variety of Turkish wine in the US, it just happens to be concentrated in very few places (if you’re in Texas, you’re in the hot spot!). Until such time as both Mexican and Turkish wine are more globally available, the solution is clear. We need to go to them! From what I can tell, wine tourism is close to booming in Mexico. While not exactly booming, wine tourism in Turkey does exist, very much at the local level and also for visitors. 

You might be thinking, I can’t travel just for wine. I would ask you, why not? I do it all the time. However, if exploring these countries’ wines isn’t enough of an enticement, think of the food, history, culture, natural beauty, beaches, etc they both offer! Really, it’s odd how similar we are. 

Of course, if one wants to learn more about Turkish wine, The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine is available more (probably) widely than the wines themselves. 

*According to the OIV’s 2024 data