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Wine Reviews

HomeWine Reviews (Page 26)

  In 2005, the Erdem Yılmaze and his wife were lured by friends to the Çömelek village near Mersin on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast. Enchanted by the quality of the local grapes and lingering evidence, in the form of ancient grape processing areas carved into the rocks and grape and goblet motif reliefs on ancient, nearby tombs, they took up the challenge to stay and make wine here. In 2010, with many trials and learning experiences behind them, they officially established Tasheli Şarap. Since then, they've done a lot of work to bring Turkey’s attention to the local Patkara grape. Tasheli features it in varietal red and rosé wines as well as

  I don't drink a lot of Moschofilero when I'm in Greece. But every time I do, I chide myself all over again for neglecting such a great variety. While one generally finds white wines made with Moschofilero, it is in fact a pink-skinned grape. Grown mainly on Greece's Peloponnese peninsula, this aromatic grape has a floral and grapey character often compared to Traminer and Muscat grapes. According to Yiannis Karakasis MW, Moschofilero has: "

  Recently, I have read more than a few pieces about Wiener Gemischter Satz which reminded me that I'd also recently drunk some. Thanks to my very good friend from Austria who brings me interesting wines; I got to try this wine for the first time over the summer. And it was delightful. That spoiler aside, let's talk about what Wiener Gemischter Satz is. Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC Without getting up too high on my horse about it, I find people avoid wines from German-speaking countries because they're afraid of the words. Personally I find French much more difficult to deal with and feel something akin to pleasure when I massively

  Turkey is no stranger to sparkling wine production. Ankara-based Vinkara wines made the first traditional method sparkling wine (with Kalecik Karası) years ago. Suvla followed with its traditional method wines, also from native grapes. Then Arcadia made one, then Kavaklidere with Chardonnay (the only not made with a native grape). Turkish sparkling wine is also made via the tank method. And we have a plethora of inexpensive bubbles made by adding carbonation.  What we did not have, was the recently fashionable pét-nat. And I say 'was' because we now do have. And not just one! No no. Four. But what IS Pét-Nat? Affectionately called, pét-nat, this style of sparkling wine is

  Edirne-based Arda Bağcılık has been a favorite winery of mine for years now. One of the first I ever visited in Turkey, this family-run winery makes wines that I think get overlooked. On the one hand, it's terrible because they're not getting the recognition I think they deserve. On the other, it keeps the prices down and I am not mad at that! While they make an outstanding Narince and have recently really begun to highlight Thracian native Papazkarası, their focus rests largely on international varieties. Even that I'm not necessarily mad at, maybe because they do it so well! Both Arda's reserve red wines and the middle Kuşlu

  One of the very first boxes I received from the Oenotrian wine club was themed to look at how Turkish wine ages. The box contained two different vintages of four wines. Because I acquire wine at a much faster rate than I drink it, I unintentionally aged several of the wines even more while they stayed buried in my wine room. Honestly, I don't even remember when I got these! Finally I got around to drinking what I think was the last pair of wines from that box: Pamukkale's Nodus Cabernet Sauvignon. If you're outside Turkey, you probably know the name Pamukkale only as the fascinating, brilliant white, limestone travertine

  Akın Gürbüz has made several Sauvignon Blanc wines over the last few years. Sometimes single vineyard, sometimes blends. I have enjoyed all of them. And then. The 2020 vintage arrived. And my mind exploded.  Sauvignon Blanc is pretty ubiquitous in Turkey. Even in Tekirdağ whence came the grapes for Gürbüz's newest vintage. We have ripe Sauvignon Blancs full of stone fruit, lean Sauvignon Blancs that showcase minerality and acidity, oaked fumé blancs (some well done some clumsy)

  The last few weeks, I've posted about wineries like Likya and Saranta growing Öküzgözü outside of it's traditional home. This week, I'm making an about-face to talk about a winery using Öküzgözü from Elazığ. Uçmakdere.  With the Sea of Marmara lapping against the shore just a few steps from this family-run winery, the view here differs greatly from that in land-locked Elazığ. But the grapes were just as happy to be made into wine here after they arrived from their journey. In the winery they joined Syrah from Barbaros in Tekirdağ (which had a much shorter trip!). One of the first, if not the first vintage Uçmakdere produced, I don't

  Büyülübağ winery is located on the island Avşa in the Sea of Marmara. When the Istanbul-levelling earthquake people keep predicting finally comes, Avşa is where you want to be. The island's composition is pure granite down to the sea bed with decomposed granite soils. That island's going nowhere. While Büyülübağ does have Cabernet vineyards on the island, those grapes are used in the winery's wild ferment Cab. For the reserve line, the grapes come from Çeşme in the Aegean region. Çeşme has a much warmer climate and richer, more fertile soils resulting in bigger and bolder wines.  I've been lucky enough to have a number of older vintage reserve