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August 2021

Home2021 (Page 7)

  Shortly before Christmas I saw that my local shop, La Cave, would soon be stocking a new wine from Kayra. Kayra might be one of the giant wineries here in Turkey but their wine, especially the mid range and top shelf, is solid. Then I saw it was a Semillon and I immediately contacted La Cave to ask him to put aside two bottles for me.  While Semillon may not have as long a history in Turkey as say, Merlot in northern Italy, it has grown here for close to 100 years now. Considered by many to be a traditional, if not native, variety, Semillon gained popularity here early

  [caption id="attachment_16139" align="alignleft" width="225"] Pürneşe red label[/caption] Pürneşe is a semi-new series from Vino Dessera. Occupying a place in the winery's mid-range line up, the Pürneşe series includes a red blend and a blush. I have had them both but it was the blush that really stood out for me. Vino Dessera brings in grapes from vineyards across Turkey. For the Pürneşe Blush, they used Çalkarası and Kalecik Karası from Denizli in the western Aegean. Kalecik Karası we frequently see as both varietal and blended rosés. Very few wineries really work with Çalkarası though. The exception to that has been Paşaeli and it's nice to see other wineries, like Vino Dessera,

  7Bilgeler (or Yedi Bilgeler as you prefer) has long produced wines I've liked and admired. My one issue was that all the wines were international grape-based. No longer! The southern Aegean-based winery has released two* new varietal native grape wines under a new 'Vindemia' label: an Emir and Kalecik Karası. *7Bilgeler has used small amounts of Kalecik Karası for a while in blends and has now also released a Chardonnay-Emir blend under different labels. 7Bilgeler Vindemia Defne Emir, 2020 While I don't particularly love it when wineries drag grapes across the country, I must admit that Emir planted outside of Central Anatolia's Cappadocia region just doesn't work. At least not so

  If Turkey has a workhorse grape, this is it. Grown in the abundant vineyards of Denizli in Turkey's Aegean region, Çalkarası (chal-car-as-ser) has often been used to support red blends. In blends, it lends some acidity to flabby grapes and fills out a wine if the preferred grapes didn't do so well that year. Meaning the "black from Çal" this grape prefers the clay loam and chalky soils of, you guessed it, Çal (a district in the Denizli province). The dark purple have a slightly elongated shape, are small to medium in size, and don't have especially thin skins. They retain acidity well and when vinified as a red wine,

  While I list places to drink wine on my Istanbul Wine Guide page, I realized that I've never done proper reviews of any of these places. Rather than beginning at the beginning (which to me is Solera); I shall start with the place I most recently visited. Carafe Istanbul Wine & Bistro. The busy Barbaros Bulvari in chaotic, university area Beşiktaş is the last place I would look for a place like Carafe Istanbul. And yet. Immediately Carafe Istanbul sets itself apart from the coffee houses and cheap burger and kebab places around it with its bright, royal blue deck walls. Colorful glass panels separate inside from outside and

  “Body” strikes one as a strange word to use to describe a liquid. One thinks of a body as something solid. However, one [of the many!] definition describes it as the “consistency, denseness, or richness” of a substance. And it is that definition we mean when we talk about the “body” of a wine. Body is how wine feels in your mouth. Okay, so now we know what body in wine is. How do we know where the various Turkish grapes fall in this light, medium, full-bodied spectrum? There is one aspect of body that we have not discussed yet and that is the grape variety itself. By their

  Like the Likya Öküzgözü I was crushing on last week, Saranta winery also grows this grape outside its traditional home of Elazığ. Unlike Likya, Saranta is not based in the Mediterranean region, but in Turkey's Thrace. Specifically, the northern area of Kırklareli. Despite being on opposite sides of the country, the two regions do share a few features, namely elevation, and cool(er) growing climates. Although Kırklareli definitely has the Mediterranean beat there! Spread along the foot of the Istranca Massif, this is a place with cold, snowy winters. Thanks to those mountains though, it's also a place of highly diverse and often quartz and mineral-rich soils.  Saranta has grown

  My introduction to Hungarian wine occurred on a work trip to Budapest in 2004. Budapest is a beautiful city I have since fallen in love with. But I felt strange in this wintery, new country where I didn’t speak the language. The wine, a syrupy, low quality Tokaji sold in the tourist shops. A memory quickly forgotten. More than 10 years later I would find myself in Hungary again for work. This time, I was not alone and was sequestered with colleagues in a spider infested hotel on Lake Balaton. The hotel food was terrible, the conference not going well, and we were at one another’s throats. Then someone