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Turkey vs Australia Taste Off: Viognier

 

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While there are plenty of Shiraz notes from both Turkey and Australia waiting to be written up, I wanted to shake things up a bit. Australia has been gaining a reputation for Viognier over the years while it’s still largely unknown in Turkey. Despite its rarity in Turkey, we have some excellent examples here. Since I just happened to have a bottle of Viognier from Australia, why not pit them against one another?

Viognier

Viognier it seems is a bit of a struggle to work with. Not in a Pinot Noir prima donna way, but it is not disposed to producing healthy or bountiful grapes and is prone to coulure (uneven berry-set).

Naturally low in acidity, it needs a lot of sun to full ripen. However, too much sun (ergo heat) makes the grapes rapidly drop what little acidity they have, leading to highly alcoholic, hot, and flabby wines. Between its ability to create high alcohol wines and the grape’s thick skins, wines tend to be full-bodied and round with a telltale “oily” mouthfeel.

In addition to its high alcohol and texture, Viognier is known for its aromatic profile. It combines perfumed flowers and ripe stone and tropical fruit. It takes well to oak which adds spice and vanilla. One of my favorite descriptions I’ve chanced upon came from The Grape Grind, giving Viognier a tasting note of pumpkin pie.

Most well known for growing in France’s Rhône Valley, Viognier has traveled around the world, growing in the US, Italy, South Africa, Austria, Switzerland, New Zealand, Argentina, and, of course, Australia and Turkey. 

In Turkey’s Corner: Kastro Tireli

Kastro Tireli’s story begins with founder Yunus Mermerci, whose passion for wine emerged while pursuing a master’s degree in finance in France and Australia; during this time, he gained hands-on experience working harvests in Hunter Valley. After returning to Turkey in the early 2000s, Yunus began experimental plantings near Akhısar, then traveled back to France in search of comparable terroirs, an exploration that led to a collaboration with renowned consultant Andrea Paoletti and ultimately to Yunus completing a Wine MBA in Bordeaux in 2006–2007.

Under Paoletti’s guidance, Kastro Tireli planted its vineyards with both international and native grape varieties. The estate sits at 200–280 meters above sea level on schist soils, benefiting from cooling sea breezes despite its inland location. Viticulture goes beyond organic standards, with no herbicides or pesticides used at all.

Winemaking takes place in a gravity-fed winery overseen by leading Turkish winemaker Işık Gülçubuk. Grapes undergo cold extraction before fermentation; whites are fermented whole-bunch with cultured yeasts, while reds rely exclusively on native yeasts. Extended skin contact, gentle cap washing, and minimal filtration define the house style. An early adopter of wild fermentations and extended maceration in Turkey, Kastro Tireli is especially noted for its Hermos line, reflecting a philosophy rooted in vineyard precision and minimal intervention.

Kastro Tireli Reserve Viognier

Turkey has plenty of sunshine and heat to ripen grapes. Luckily, it also has a great deal of both sea influence and elevation, both of which allow grapes to enjoy the sunshine without getting baked by it. Day-night temperature swings let them cool down and rest at night, storing up all their aromas and retain their acidity. This means that we are able to successfully cultivate Viognier in certain parts of the country. Like the Chateau Gali Viognier with grapes that grow along the spine of the Gallipoli Peninsula. 

While significantly more inland, Kastro Tireli’s vineyards also enjoy elevation, winds, and cool nights. Along with the winery’s dedication to clean viticulture, grapes reach the winery in peak condition.

Warm lemon color on the pour. Aromas of ripe peaches and pear compote sprinkled with brown spice and the alluring scent of honeysuckle floated out from the glass. Pure silk texture glided over the tongue with bright and clean flavors of vanilla cream-soaked fruit, chamomile flowers, honeycomb, and beeswax. Medium-bodied with 13.5% ABV.

Elegant and nicely made.

In the past, Kastro Tireli had only used Viognier in two blends, the Narince Viognier white and the original Hermos. They’ve also taken Viognier to the next level with a skin contact Hermos Viognier. 

In Australia’s Corner: Yalumba Winery

The story of Yalumba Winery began when Samuel Smith ventured across the seas from England. He settled in southern Australia where, in 1849, he planted his first vines. Now, six generations later, Yalumba is one of the biggest names in Australian wine and still run by the Hill-Smith family. 

While the family hasn’t changed over the years, their farming practices have evolved. The family is deeply dedicated to sustainability and community. This includes organic farming, reducing the amount of water used, solar power, and other measures to protect the earth. Their belief in sustainability goes beyond the farm and extends to supporting communities. In addition to sharing their knowledge with others in the wine industry, Yalumba Winery hires as locally as possible and gives back to local communities.

Have you ever compared the same grape from different countries or regions? What did you think of what you tasted?

Want more than just the Viognier wines? Check out all my Kastro Tireli wine reviews!