Gilamada by Argos In Cappadocia
One of the magical things about living in Turkey is how one seems to stumble across history everyone one goes. Sometimes its obvious. In Istanbul the Haghia Sofia and Sultanahmet Camii (the Blue Mosque) dominate the skyline. Every time I fly into Izmir I remember that it 
used to be called Smyrna. In Cappadocia I’ve explored cave churches that belonged to early Christians. And never have I been more aware of the history here than since I began researching Turkish wine. Its history goes back at least to the Hittites who ruled Anatolia from 1650 BC.
Take a step back in time
The ancient region of Cappadocia remains one of the most visited areas of Turkey. In addition to sunrise hot air balloon rides; its history, open air museum full of hidden cave churches, and rediscovered underground cities that snake under the entire region continue to draw tourists every year. Cave hotels retain their number one spot as well as the best place to lay your head after a hard day tramping through caves. Whether they’re actual cave rooms or simulated, their popularity is undeniable.
Enter Mr. Gökşin Ilıcalı who, over the course of 10 years, transformed a small, neglected neighborhood of stone houses in Uçhisar into a luxury hotel, Argos in Cappadocia. The hotel covers an entire mahalle, or neighborhood, of restored stone houses, caves, tunnels, and
even a chapel. If you’re not lucky enough to score a room here, visitors can still take advantage of the opportunity to step back in time and experience see how people lived in Cappadocia during the hotel’s daily tour.
A lover of wine as well as history, in 2002 Ilıcalı established his own vineyards cultivating Emir, Kalecik Karası, and Syrah. Previously working with and labeling his wines under the umbrella of Cappadocia wine giant Turasan; Argos is now establishing its own winery. Argos’s new line, Gilamada, will certainly have plenty of storage space! Of the many caves restored, the Argos Vineyards cellar, situated below the hotel’s Seki Restaurant, is a combination of original cave structures and stonework added for the purpose of making a cellar (eg the shelves). The cellar contains over 300 wines, the majority of them Turkish, totaling some 25,000 bottles.
Argos Gilamada Emir 2016 Tasting Notes
Emir is one of the best, underutilized grapes in Turkey. Capable of making wines with crunchy fruit, singing acidity and an almost salty minerality, this seemingly simple grape is a difficult one to get right in the glass. Argos’s Emir shows light gold in the glass. Not your usual Cappadocia Emir, the nose revealed pear, and floral aromas lifted by bright citrus and filled out with a hint of earthy herbs. Pleasingly low alcohol at just 12.3% abv, its light-weight body is somehow both soft and aggressively acidic. Largely reflective of the nose but dominated by pear and acacia flowers.
Argos Gilamada Kalecik Karası 2015 Tasting Notes
Argos also cultivates Kalecik Karası in its Cappadocia vineyards. While it is also a Central Anatolian grape, unlike Emir, its home is not Cappadocia but the Kalecik district of Ankara. The alcohol in the Gilamada Kalecik Karası initially overwhelms on the nose. After some vigorous swirling though it opens to blue fruits and prunes decorated with vanilla sugar and baking spices, forest underfloor, and earthy, animal aromas. Not as rich or layered as the nose promises, the palate nonetheless offers flavors of blueberry and black mulberry, cinnamon and cinnamon. Medium bodied with 14% abv, high acidity, and a slightly bitter finish. It went very well with traditional Turkish pastırma, highly seasoned, air-dried cured beef.
Argos Gilamada Syrah 2015 Tasting Notes
The last wine in Argos’s Gilamada series is the Syrah, which was my favorite. A fulsome nose of dates, chocolate, mocha, and baking spices. Full fruit flavors with a long mocha and bitter coffee finish. Incredibly silky wine with round tannins and a balance so precise you don’t even notice the whopping 14.8% abv. Really a gorgeous wine. I enjoyed it immensely on my friend’s beautiful patio on a warm summer’s eve. Really though this wine is for crispy fall leaves and smokey fireplaces.