Most people, including many wine enthusiasts, have not heard of many (or any) of Turkey’s grape varieties. While Turkey shares some native grapes with its geographic neighbors, the majority are endemic to the country. There’s no Narince in California. No Öküzgözü in South Africa. Nor is there any Kalecik Karası in New Zealand
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One of Turkey’s most popular culinary traditions is that of rakı balık. Literally translated as rakı fish, this is the great tradition that comes from the Turkish meyhane, or tavern. Rakı is a grape spirit-based, anise-infused liquor similar to Greece’s ouzo and Lebanon’s arak. In Turkey, this drink, served over ice and diluted with water, accompanies traditional fish and small bite meze. While a modern tradition, and no offense to those who love the rakı balık, the heavy anise flavor of rakı doesn’t really go with a lot of foods. It’s time to make room on the meze table for wine. In my last article, Pairing Turkish Wines with
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Many of us have heard the old adage to pair white wine with chicken and fish and red wine with red meat (like beef and lamb). Happily, that advice has pretty much gone out the window over the last years. For one thing…where does pork live in this configuration? What happens when you put a cream sauce on red meat? White wine with delicate fish and seafood sure…but what about heavier (dare I say “meaty”) fish like swordfish or tuna steak? It’s called a “tuna steak” for a reason after all! The best pairing advice has nothing to do with your protein (or vegetable if you swing that way).
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The Urla district of İzmir in Turkey's Aegean region has become a hotbed of trendy wineries. Many belong to the Urla Bağ Yolu (the easiest wine route to navigate). Even those that do not though are not so far off the path. The newest winery to open its doors is Hus Şarapçılık. Founded in 2017 by Juan Pablo Diaz Leon and Ceylan Ertörer Diaz Leon, Hus Şarapçılık is a family venture that blends the Chilean wine background of Juan Pablo's family, and the agricultural history belong to Ceylan's family. When I talk about the Turkish-Greek population exchange of the 1920s, it's usually about the Greeks leaving Turkey (as that directly
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Asmadan winery, located in Eceabat on the Gallipoli Peninsula, has vineyards in several locations in Turkey. Some surround the winery, others sit in the Aegean region - Turkey's most prolific grape growing area. The winery also works with growers in the east. From Elazığ and Diyarbakır (respectively), it sources Öküzgözü and Boğazkere. The topic of our tasting notes today. The winery currently produces wine under five labels (listed below in descending order of quality). Kor Reserve holds a place at the top of Asmadan's quality pyramid. Kayalıtepe Kor Reserve Duman Gönülden CNKL Asmadan Kor Reserve Öküzgözü Boğazkere, 2018 Öküzgözü and Boğazkere are considered common blending partners. They have a very Merlot-Cabernet relationship. The Asmadan Kor Reserve
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In January, Esat bey, owner of La Cave in Cihangir, asked if I'd recently had the Kayra Vintage Boğazkere. It was his highest selling wine that month. Far (apparently) outstripping any other wine sales. He gave me a bottle with the instructions to go home that evening, open it, and let him know what I thought. He would do the same. I do not know who started the run on this wine but I hope that person creates more buying trends! It's been a while since I've had any Kayra and I forget sometimes how good their wine is. Particularly those in the Vintage and Versus lines. If you're
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I am so excited to share that I am a contributing author to the revamped Turquazz! What began as a celebration of Turkey's devotion to jazz and its own Anatolian music has developed into a full-blown exaltation of Anatolian music and culinary arts. "From the Black Sea to the Mediterranean, from Greece to the Iranian border – what is known as Anatolia has a lot to offer, not only a varied landscape but also a long history and multi-faceted culture. For certain, Anatolia is a place of endless stories once you explore its abundant riches. What we focus on today here are the contemporary approaches to this cultural mosaic
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Pronounced: bow-ahz-keh-reh, which means "throat burner" in Turkish, this grape is one of the most formidable in Turkey's vineyards. Grown primarily in South East Anatolia (Diyarbakır), in some of the country's most eastern vineyards, Boğazkere berries are small, round, and blue/black in color with thick skin. They grow in large, tight, heavy bunches. In the fall, the leaves develop a distinctive red color from the leaf edge inwards. These grapes do best in hot, dry climates (hello Diyarbakır) and poor, calcareous-clay soils. While Diyarbakır is its origin, Boğazkere is now grown in various places around the country including in Turkey's Aegean and Mediterranean vineyards. If Boğazkere with its in your
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I thought I'd had all of Gordias's wines. The I stumbled across a picture of this blend on the winery's Instagram feed. A wine I hadn't had?! Clearly, I had to rectify this situation. Not only had I never had this particular wine from Gordias but I'd never had this wine from anyone. The blend was something entirely new to me. Not only is a blend of Turkish grapes Kalecik Karası and Boğazkere extremely uncommon, Gordias owner and winemaker Canan Gerimli then threw in some Merlot. Because, why not? Gerimli pulled grapes for this wine from several locations around Turkey. The Boğazkere came from its 'home' in Diyarbakır, the Kalecik Karası
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If Turkey has a traditional wine blend it would be Öküzgözü Boğazkere. These two grapes native to Turkey's eastern provinces (of Elazığ and Diyarbakır respectively) compliment one another. Öküzgözü has bright red fruits and vibrant acidity. Boğazkere adds tannin, structure, power, and savory notes. I've drunk quite a few of these blends over the years. Like anything else, some are good, some are not, and some are outstanding. Having had Öküzgözü Boğazkere blends a plenty, very few surprise me anymore. Until I had Kutman's. The Adnan Kutman winery sits at the edge of the Sea of Marmara fully on the other side of the country to the grapes' homes. The winery
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