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October 2019

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  Bozcaada based winery Corvus is one of the most recognized names in wine in Turkey. When Reşit Söley decided to give up architecture for winemaking, he did it with a meticulousness and considerable energy. Söley threw himself into regenerating old island vineyards and planting new plots. Now, nearly 20 years after founding Corvus, Söley makes a wide range of wines with both local and international grapes. Of his wines, my favorites are the ones that blend the local and international grapes; like the Blend Bianco. Normally I'd have stayed away from this one (Chardonnay + oak and all) but it came highly recommended by my friend Başak of Empathia Creative. Corvus

  Undeniably the smallest with only four members, the Güney İzmir (South Izmir) route even shares some of its members with the İç Ege Bağ Rotası. Its small size in no way detracts from the joys to be found at each winery though. Güney İzmir Bağ Rotası Yes, this is the smallest of all the routes (and includes two repeat wineries) but I think it's one of the most culturally interesting. As far as what (else) there is to do along the route that is! Closer to the top of the route lies Metropolis. No, not the home of the Daily Planet and Superman! The ancient city is located, ironically, near Yeniköy

  Nestled in a bowl-like cradle in mountainous Bodrum and nearly lost in the riotous greenery of the surrounding agriculture grow vines of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Shiraz, and Zinfandel. This is Garova Vineyards. Wineries in Turkey have plenty of obstacles to overcome. Much of them, like the high alcohol and "luxury goods" taxes and ban on advertising come from the industry's biggest impediment, the current government. Pair that with a failing economy and general lack of wine culture and you get an industry riddled with stumbling blocks. With this many issues facing a new winemaker, who would enter this life with road blocks of his own? Garova Vineyards' founder

  In Part One of my Turkish Wine Routes series I covered the Urla Bağ Yolu. Now for Part Two, we're moving east from the Aegean coastal district of Urla to Turkey's more inland Aegean areas with the İç Ege Bağ Rotası. İç Ege Bağ Rotası The İç Ege Bağ Rotası (literally: inner Aegean vineyard route) is a fairly recent invention. At least it is the newest of Turkey's four wine routes. The route covers a large area; some 11,700 square kilometers. So says Google. It is 200 kilometers from the winery closest to the Aegean (Nif Bağları) to the farthest inland (Küp Şarapçılık) and another 200+ kilometers from Kastro Tireli

  Turkey's Aegean region is home to beautiful coasts, vistas, and culinary delights. Thanks to these advantages, it's also a hotbed for both domestic and international tourism. Alaçatı, Ceşme is one of the prettiest villages along the southern Aegean coast and a big stop on the tourist trail. The city center is all low, white-washed buildings with colorful (mostly bright blue) shutters and simply dripping with flowering bougainvillea. Tucked in amidst all the restaurants, boutique stores, and tourist chachki shops one finds the Gemici Wine & Jam shop. In addition to homemade jams, soaps, oils, and the like, the shop also carries wine made by the Gemici family. The Gemicis make

  Turkey, the land of Süleyman the Magnificent, Atatürk, the Bosphorus, the battle at Gallipoli, fezes, fairy chimneys of Cappadocia, ayran, kebab, Turkish coffee, and wine. Wine is not the first thing that comes to mind when people think of Turkey, but with thousands of years of winemaking history, more than 100 wineries, and some 1200 native grape varieties, all that is changing. The evolution of Turkish wine and wine routes Previously a low-key industry dominated by a small handful of mega production wineries, Turkish wine really began to take off in the late 1990s with the advent of boutique producers. While the word “boutique” is now both over and misused

  Ever having tried Domaine Porto Carras' sparkling wine Yliana I've been wanting to try more of the winery's wines. During my next trip to Greece I kept a look out for the domaine's wines and happily found one. And not just any wine, my new (Greek) obsession Malagousia. Malagousia (or Malagouzia) is an aromatic white grape grown primarily in central Greece and Greek Macedonia. The pale yellow wines which are given by Malagousia have intense aromatic content that refers to white flesh fruits such as peach, fresh aromatic herbs, green pepper and citrus, while some notes of muscat stand out. According to Konstantinos Lazarakis MW, Malagousia's resurgence started in

  Pinot Noir and I have not got on very well. Just not my grape. I have enjoyed a few, chiefly Chamlija's Felix Culpa. But overall the grape has always left me feeling flat. Until a visit to Ma'Adra in Turkey's north Aegean. Also, not going to lie. I love the Burgundy wine glass. Mother Earth in the Madra Mountains Former architect Fikret Özdemir once visited old vineyards in the Madra Mountains and was struck by the beauty there. When Özdemir retired, remembering his visit and reaction to the land, he decided to start a winery in the area as a retirement hobby. The land he selected has not been worked for anything,

  For some years now, Doluca has been making a red blend called Signium. The blend changes from year to year but it has always been red. Until now. Last year the winery released its first white Doluca Signium. As one of Turkey's largest wineries, I often look upon Doluca a bit distrustfully. The winery is responsible for putting some of Turkey's worst wines on the market. However, it was also one of the first to recognize the need for quality wine. In the late 80s it launched its Sarafin line. Together with wineries like Umurbey slowly began to change the face of Turkish wine. Now it offers wines at every