Turkish Wine Routes Part Three: South Izmir
Undeniably the smallest with only four members, the Güney İzmir (South Izmir) route even shares some of its members with the İç Ege Bağ Rotası. Its small size in no way detracts from the joys to be found at each winery though.
Güney İzmir Bağ Rotası
Yes, this is the smallest of all the routes (and includes two repeat wineries) but I think it’s one of the most culturally interesting. As far as what (else) there is to do along the route that is!
Closer to the top of the route lies Metropolis. No, not the home of the Daily Planet and Superman! The ancient city is located, ironically, near Yeniköy which means, new village. Not kidding. The earliest known settlement here dates back to the Neolithic period. Hittites and both Mycenaean, Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine peoples settled here at one time or another. What is visible today is primarily a heavily Romanized Hellenistic city with Byzantine remains laid across it – a church to the east of the city, and fortification walls laid across city that connect to the Hellenistic defenses on the Acropolis.
Closer to the last two wineries on the route (in fact only about seven kilometers from Yedi Bilgeler) lies one of Turkey’s most recognizable sites: Ephesus. In present day Selçuk, Ephesus was an ancient Greek city on the coast of Ionia. Thanks to Austrian universities, it is one of the best excavated (semi-restored) sites on the Aegean. In the same area, visitors can enjoy the Ephesus museum (where many originals from the city are located), the temple of Artemis (a wonder from the ancient world), and the last house of the Virgin Mary.
For those worshippers of the sun (or anyone who needs a break from culture and wine) is nearby Kuşadası. A lovely beach area where you can enjoy the Aegean Sea.
Sevilen (İsabey Bağ Evi) Şarapçılık
Sevilen is one of Turkey’s largest producers. The company has three main facilities, one along the Sea of Marmara in Mürefte, one in Izmir just a stone’s throw from the airport, and one in Aydın. The Magnesia winery in Aydın is Sevilen’s main production site but the İsabey Bağ Evi near the airport is where visitors go. Here Sevilen offers wine tastings, a cafe in which to relax and have some nibbles with wine, has a large wine shop, and even a small wine museum!
LA Şarapçılık
Otherwise known as Domaine Lucien Arkas, LA Wines is the product of a wine loving innovator. Lucien Arkas took a floundering winery, Idol Wines, and turned it into a sleek operation with organic farming. This beautiful winery sits just outside Izmir proper and has become a major destination for weddings and events. More than just a pretty location, LA Wines is out to challenge the Turkish palate. This winery is responsible for introducing grapes like Montepulciano, Marselan, Chenin Blanc, and Trebbiano to Turkey.
Yedi Bilgeler
I won’t lie…on this route I do have a favorite winery and this is it. While I could wish the Bilge bey used more native grapes in his wine; his wine is undeniably stunning. The red blends, mono wines (one of my favorite Turkish Malbecs here), even his rosé (!!!), and his whites are all stunners. Yedi Bilgeler means “seven sages” named for the great and all his wines bear the name of one of these ancient, great thinkers. An onsite hotel and restaurant make this an ideal stopping place along the route and if you happen to be there on a weekend you can also enjoy live music!
Sevilen (Magnesia) Şarapçılık
Named after the nearby (although not visitable) ancient city, Magnesia, is Sevilen’s main production facility. The winery itself is not super visitable, which is a shame because it’s beautiful. But if you know someone and can make an appointment then you’re golden. Be warned though, it’s inside an industrial complex. Istanbites and I did not discover this until we found ourselves in the middle of an olive grove with no winery in evidence. I am sorry to say that was not the first time we found ourselves in such a situation either!
This is part three of a four-part series on the wine routes of Turkey. If you missed them catch up with Part One and Part Two.