Patkara Stepping Out From the Shadows
While I’ve written about it a number of times now, Patkara is still something of an emerging grape in Turkey. The first glimpse we had of it was a handful of years ago from Urla Şarapçılık. In association with Anatolian grape expert Umay Çeviker and Tasheli, it was part of a limited release “Discovery” series. Why it remains relatively obscure has nothing to do with the grape’s quality or suitability for wine production, and more to the fact that it’s a highly localized grape grown where wineries are scarce. In fact, only two small, family-run wineries are dedicated to it: Tasheli and Selefkia.
Patkara is at home on the slopes on the Taurus Mountains in the Çömelek and Karacaoğlan villages in Göksu Valley. It might be a valley but it’s a heck of a high one. Turkey has a plethora of high elevation vineyards and Patkara’s are no joke at over 1,000 meters. The grape prefers sandy, pebbly soils and is a relatively early ripening grape. In fact, that’s how this particularly grape got its name: “pat” meaning “fast, suddenly” in Turkish and “kara” is the stem for “black” – a word that appears in many Turkish grape names.
In a way, this is very much Turkey’s Tempranillo!
This blue-black grape develops very high sugars making in appropriate for table grapes, raisins, and molasses production in addition to wine. It’s also an old grape with the majority of vineyards coming in at about 50 years old, some even older.
Tasheli Patkara, 2019
Tasheli‘s Patkara vineyards come in as the highest, topping out at 1,200 meter above sea level in the Taurus Mountains. The Yılmaz family’s journey with Patkara began in 2005 as amateur winemakers but serious wine enthusiasts. Years of learning on their own and receiving guidance from other winemakers and experts have now paid off. With the help of Umay Çeviker, Patkara has become their star grape.
The wine poured a medium opaque ruby with purple undertones. A bold nose spoke of blue fruit like blueberry and boysenberry, cherry, old leather, iris, and pine forest. A rounded palate presented juicy fruits and earth with soft tannins, medium acidity, and a whopping 14% abv.
Selefkia Old Vine Patkara, 2020
Neighboring Tasheli in Mersin is Selefkia. Also a devotee of the local Patkara, this family-run winery produces a number of wines, red and pink, from the grape. The old, head-trained vines grow in vineyards full of chalky clay soils, at 1,150 meters above sea level.
For 2020, Selefkia debuted a bottling of Patkara exclusively from its 80 year old vines. Deep purple-ruby in the glass (I sense a pattern!) with an explosion of fruit. Black raspberry and mulberry chased cherry, mahlep, and nutmeg. Medium plus acidity added a freshness to fruits more red than black with red plum joining raspberries and earth.
For those who prefer lower alcohol wines, this one’s for you at just 12.5%!
Yaban Patkara, 2019
Yaban is a new project run by a small group seeking out under-appreciated and lesser-known varieties in Turkey. They work in association with different wineries to make their wines. The Yaban Patkara, made by winemaker Semril Zorlu, was made with winery Asmadan.
The grapes come from Karacaoğlan Köyü, Çömlek, Mut in the Taurus Mountains. Grown at 1,150 meters, the 40 year old vines sit in pebbly soils that are a mix of quartz and limestone.
(Again) A purple-ruby on the pour with aromas both similar and wildly different than the two previous wines. Purple-black fruits like blue plum and earth were reminiscent of the other two; but they were joined by rich black olive and hints of tomato leaf. The palate offered tart, mouth-puckering, sourpatch kids-like fruits. Blueberry and olive circled each other…and not much else. Chalky tannins, medium plus acidity, and moderate alcohol (13.1%). Very different than I expected from the nose; I really tried to let this open but unfortunately found it thin and hollow.
Interested in learning more about this grape? Check out all of my Patkara wine reviews here!
Don’t forget to get a copy of The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine for the wine/travel/adventure lovers in your life (or for yourself!) before Christmas! The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine is available globally from Amazon and in Istanbul from TheQuirkyCork.com, La Cave, Comedus, Mahzen 26, Santé Wine & More, Mensis Mahzen, Dekante, Wayana, Homer Kitap Evi, Minoa, and Mephisto.