Paşaeli Kaynaklar Bordeaux Blends
Seyit Karagözoğlu’s path to becoming a winemaker began in the early 90s when he started importing wine and beer to Turkey. While his career as an importer has made him a successful man, his interest has always lain with wine. He figured since Turkey was the 5th largest grape producer; more wine should be made here and he should be doing it. Thus Paşaeli was born.
In 2002 Karagözoğlu planted his first vineyards in Kaynaklar, 20 kilometers away from Izmir. Since then he has acquired or planted vineyards in four other locations and cultivates nearly a dozen grape varieties. Of those grapes about half are not only native Turkish varieties but extremely rare varieties.
Karagözoğlu makes something like 12-14 different wines. Some years there are more-for example he buys in Papaskarası in years the grapes meet his quality standards. Given the number of wines I was very surprised to learn that Paşaeli’s annual production remains fairly boutique. They make only 60-65,000 bottles a year. Much of this is due to the rarity of the grapes Karagözoğlu uses.
The original Paşaeli vineyards in Kaynaklar are planted to the Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. While Karagözoğlu’s passion is the rare Turkish grapes, he is also very pragmatic. The local Turkish market loves a Bordeaux blend and making one is the quickest way to break into the local market. Although apparently it’s not just the Turkish market! Paşaeli wines are exported to over 10 countries, including the UK, where the K2 is his highest seller.
While I’ve drunk both the Kaynaklar Bordeaux blend and the K2 several times I was curious to try them together to compare them. They are both the same grapes with relatively similar proportions of each. Grapes for both come from the Kaynaklar vineyards. They, like all Paşaeli red wines, are also both fermented with native yeasts. Unfortunately I couldn’t get my hands on wines from the same vintage but here you take what you can get.
Paşaeli K2, 2014
The name of this wine, K2, is in reference to it being the second wine from the Paşaeli Kaynaklar vineyards. The grapes come from the lower, flatter area of the vineyards and it sees less ageing than the Kaynaklar blend. The K2 ages 12 months in oak then another six in the bottle prior to release. However, it is made with no less care and is a beautiful wine in its own right,
Lots of big, red fruits on the nose here including cherries and cassis. Sweet spices, thyme, and slightly woodsy/fresh forest aromas accompany the fruit. The K2 definitely benefits from breathing time. I tried it right after I poured (really bracing acid) and then again after an hour in the decanter. So much better the second go-around. Sour cherry rides on velvety tannins while a now tamer, mouthwatering acid brightens and balances.
And speaking of balance; this is a fairly high alcohol wine; not unlooked for in wines coming from the heat of the Izmir region. However, you would never know it. I would never have put this at 14.4% abv.
Paşaeli Kaynaklar Blend, 2011
Different vintages aside, the Kaynaklar blend is obviously of a higher quality right from the beginning. The K2 looks more like a medium intense garnet in the glass while the Kaynakler shows far more extraction and is a deep, inky garnet. It has twice the barrel ageing as the K2 and a total of 36 months ageing before release (24 months in oak, 12 in the bottle).
The nose is almost as deep and dark as the wine’s color. Taking the main stage were spicy clove, toffee, and coffee. But fruit was not forgotten as bramble and dried fruits and hints of violet accompanied the bouquet.
Slightly firm but generally round and velvety tannins melted into a long finish of spices and coffee. Given the depth of flavor and alcohol content (14.5%) I definitely recommend decanting this for a good two hours or so before drinking. I usually drink my reds without the benefit of aerating because I like the aggressiveness of out of the bottle tannins. However; the Kaynaklar here is so much more about secondary and tertiary aromas. I would have lost that experience without the decanting.