Enjoying Good Karma at Doluca
At the end of November during Turkey’s annual Sommeliers’ Selection event, I had the chance to participate in a vertical tasting of two wines from Doluca: the Karma Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü and the Karma Shiraz Boğazkere presented by the winery’s Education and International Marketing Manager, Ebru Günaçan.
Circa 2000, Doluca owner Ahmet Kutman decided to make the Karma line to show that Turkish grapes could blend well with recognized, European varieties. Blending Turkish and international varieties isn’t new (well maybe it was in 2000, that was before I got here). Now, at least, such blends are not uncommon as a) many of the grapes really do work well together; and b) it serves as a soft introduction to people hesitant to try an unfamiliar grape. Especially one with umlaüts.
One of Turkey’s largest (and oldest) volume winery’s; Doluca still maintains a thoughtfulness that I often see lacking in other big volume wineries. A thoughtfulness reflected also in this new line. Ahment bey wanted the labels to hint at the nature of the wine within. So, for example, the Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü blend’s label features a stone surrounded by sand to represent the strength of Cabernet and the comparative softness of Öküzgözü.
Generally speaking all the wines in the Karma series (including the other blends) age in new oak, often a combination of French and American, usually for somewhere between 10-12 months. In all blends, the international grape takes the lead and wines weigh in not under 14% ABV.
On to the wine!
Doluca Karma Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü Series
We tasted five of the Karma Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü blends. The Cabernet for these wines comes from Turkey’s Thrace while the Öküzgözü comes from Elazığ in the east (the grape’s native home).
Karma Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü 2013 blended 74% Cabernet and 26% Öküzgözü and aged 12 months in oak. Freshly roasted espresso beans, wisps of cigar smoke, herbs sprinkled over freshly turned earth, and dried sour cherries filled my nose. The palate displayed more fruit flavors than were evident in the nose. Although maybe the fruit on the nose would have been more obvious if I’d had the patience to let this breathe longer! Full-bodied with the silky caress of tannin and flavors of baked cherries and dried figs sprinkled with baking spices and herbs.
Karma Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü 2011 had a little more Öküzgözü, at 30%, and 70% Cabernet and also included some later harvest grapes; all aged 12 months in oak. Dried fruit aromas swirled with cigar box, caramel, clove, and espresso beans. On the palate, spicy ripe and rich red fruits complimented the caramel and espresso flavors. Again, full-bodied, round, silky, and beautifully balanced.
Karma Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü 2009 saw a touch less oak ageing only 11 months. This blend of 73% Cabernet and 27% Öküzgözü showed more green pepper and red fruits in the nose along with dried rose petals and hints of animal.
Karma Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü 2007 had a very similar to blend to the 2009 with 74% Cabernet and 26% Öküzgözü. This vintage however, spent 13 months in oak. Deep, rich, and as romantic as the feeling of being draped with heavy silk, the bouquet of the 2007 was redolent with dried fig, espresso beans, carob, and tar. Yet still youthful on the palate with juicy acidity, silky tannins, and flavors of ripe red berries mingled with coffee and chocolate.
Karma Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü 2003 was the final and oldest wine of this series that we tasted. Aged 12 months in the barrel, this 70% Cabernet 30% Öküzgözü blend really showed the ageability of Turkish wines. Wines of any age are not easy to source making it an especial treat to be able to try some of these older vintages during Günaçan’s tasting.
Here, clove, carob, and dried fig dominated the nose. On the palate, the wine felt nicely rounded but with tannins that were still very much present. Flavors of dried fruits and the memory of dried herbs lingered on the tongue with spicy clove and silky milk chocolate.
Doluca Karma Shiraz Boğazkere Series
For its Karma Shiraz Boğazkere Series, Doluca sources grapes from its vineyards in Denizli near Izmir and Diyarbakır. Like the Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü series, the wines age in a combination of, usually new, American and French oak for an average 12 months.
Karma Shiraz Boğazkere 2014 blended 78% Shiraz with 22% Boğazkere and aged 12 months in oak. Still fairly youthful with lots juicy fruit in the nose, especially mulberry. The palate on the other hand was black pepper city.
Karma Shiraz Boğazkere 2013 wanted lots of air for the 80% Shiraz 20% Boğazkere blend. This was all coffee and olives in the nose. Kind of a weird combination but it was working. Round with a medium plus body and freshly roasted espresso bean flavors.
Karma Shiraz Boğazkere 2012 unlike the previous two wines aged 11 months in oak and contained a whopping 84% Shiraz with just a hint of Boğazkere (16%). Coffee seemed to be a the common thread across both series. Something in the oak perchance? So much coffee in the nose here but joined by hints of animal, nutmeg, violets, tomato sauce, and green pepper.
Karma Shiraz Boğazkere 2011 was very similar to the 2012 blend with 83% Shiraz, 17% Boğazkere, and 11 months oak ageing. Very floral nose, potpourri-like, with violets and tobacco flowers, tobacco, and once again coffee. Lots of mouthwatering acidity on this one with rich flavors of caramel coffee budino.
The last, and oldest of this series we tasted was the Karma Shiraz Boğazkere 2009 which was 80% Shiraz and 20% Boğazkere. The 2009 used late harvest grapes, resulting in high alcohol of 15.2% abv. Aromas of green pepper, mulberry jam, and black pepper. Big, punchy flavors of fruit and pepper and still very fresh and youthful.
Doluca Karma Merlot Boğazkere 2015 Tasting Notes
While the the tasting did not include the Karma Merlot Boğazkere series, having it previously I decided to throw a bottle of it into the mix. Like the previous two series, this line blends grapes from across the country. The Merlot comes from Tekirdağ vineyards in Thrace and the Boğazkere from southeastern Anatolia. It also aged for 12 months in both French and American barrels.
A spiciness on the nose highlighted dried fruits, rich, dark roasted coffee, and licorice. Full-bodied and round on the palate, Merlot’s more lush character softened the edges of the often harshly tannic Boğazkere. Initial flavors of spice and coffee revealed some mid palate blue plums that deepened into dried figs on the lingering finish. A beautiful balance maintained a fine tension between the high alcohol (14.5%), mouthwatering acidity, and fine grained tannins. A lovely wine. A lovely series.