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Turkey Does the Côtes du Rhône #Winophiles

 

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This month the #winophiles are exploring the Côtes du Rhône. You can view the preview here. Originally I was going to pass on this one. The imported cost of quality Côtes du Rhône wines generally being out of my price range. However, by invitation of this month’s host Camilla etc etc, I’m taking a slightly different approach to the topic. While the others look at the Côtes du Rhône in France; I’m looking at its influence on Turkish wine.

When the modern Turkish wine industry kicked off in the 1930’s and 40’s it looked to Europe for inspiration, know-how, and grapes. As a result we have a lot of Bordeaux-style wines here. I mean like a lot. And while that region’s wines may have had the largest impact on Turkish wine, it was not the only region from which Turkish wineries took their cue. Rhône’s impact is felt clearly here as well. In fact, Syrah is the second most planted grape here after the native Öküzgözü. Syrah may be the most popular Rhône grape but it’s not the only one to have made it to Turkey. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Marselan, and Cinsault also make the occasional appearance (as both varietal wines and in blends). 

Rhône’s white grapes have also found a place in Turkish vineyards. Viognier especially gains a wider following year after year with at least 14 wineries making it into both varietal wines and blends. Marsanne and Roussanne likewise have made a splash here. Vinolus winery near Turkey’s famous Cappadocia makes a 100% Roussanne that is one of the most beautiful wines here.

The Côtes du Rhône has inspired more than just a grape migration to Turkey. Several wineries also emulate some of the region’s traditional blends. It is those I’m looking at for this month’s #winophiles exploration of the region.

Suvla Marsanne Roussanne, 2017

I first had this wine several years ago and some some very strongly negative reactions to it. I do not care for a lot of oak on my white wines and, at the time, described this wine as “Suvla trying to shove all of Mirkwood into the bottle.” I have studiously avoided it ever since. But how could I not gird my loins and try it again for this month’s #winophiles event?

I didn’t mind it so much this time around! Whether my tastes have evolved or the winemaker developed a lighter touch with oak I cannot say though. There definitely was a generous amount of oak happening here though as the blend both fermented and aged (for 12 months) in oak barrels. Bright medium lemon on the pour with baked pear, melon, banana, vanilla, pastry, nutmeg, and hazelnut. On the palate it was dry and full-bodied with high but not discernible alcohol at 14.5% abv. Round and creamy texture wrapped around vibrant acidity and an intense flavor profile. That bright acidity added a freshness to the fruit sensed on the nose and added splashes of lemon. The fruit accompanied flaky pastry dusted with vanilla sugar before moving onto a lightly toasted hazelnut finish.

I paired this with my favorite summer salad of mixed greens, leeks, onions, and peaches with buffalo burrata dressed with balsamic glaze. Perfection. I also ended up trying it with the sandwich I made to go with the reds. Initially I hesitated to do so because white wine with bacon seemed wrong…but if any pairing with bacon is wrong I don’t want to be right! It was actually a pretty dynamite pairing!

Barbare Ambiance, 2014

Barbare, named for the Turkish pirate Red Beard, is one of the last winery’s in Turkey’s Thracian region before it bleeds into the Marmara region. It’s also an especially appropriate winery to feature for #winophiles as owner, Can Topsakal is a huge Francophone. After an aducation at Istanbul’s most famous French college prep high school, Galatasaray Lisesi, Topsakal spent years living and working in France. He brought his love of all things French back to Turkey and plants only French varieties in his vineyard. Barbare is also the only winery here producing a Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre blend a la the Southern Rhône.

The Barbare GSM, Ambiance, is one of my favorite go-to wines here. Despite 12 months ageing in French oak barrels and a shocking 15% alcohol by volume, the wine retains an ease and lightness that makes it incredibly food friendly. Juicy and savory, this medium garnet colored wine released intense aromas of black cherries, plum, bay leaf, black pepper, chocolate, and charred wood. Palate flavors were likewise intense and reflected the nose. The charred wood and pepper were especially elevated and joined by dried herbs, roasted tomato, and leather. Mouthwatering acidity and medium, persistent tannins completed the picture.

Both the Barbare Ambiance and the Kayra below I paired with the same thing: a BLT made with crisp back bacon, bacon jam, slow roasted tomatoes, and black pepper thyme mayonnaise on toasted sourdough. And yes. Both the sandwich and the pairing were magnificent. The roasted tomatoes in the sandwich really made the fruit flavors in the wine pop while the bacon accentuated the wine’s charred wood flavors.

Kayra Versus Syrah Viognier, 2017

I’d never heard of the blending of Syrah with Viognier before I first saw this wine from Kayra a handful of years ago. I think my mind imploded a little bit and I stared in puzzlement at the bottle for sometime. A quick Google search told me all about the Côte-Rôtie and how winemakers there often co-ferment a little Viognier (up to 20%) with their Syrah to add a floral elegance.

Kayra’s Versus Syrah Viognier achieved that elegance with seemingly graceful ease. Aromas of black mulberry, prune, and black cherry hit the nose first before notes of black pepper, violet, iris, and cedar expressed themselves. Nicely structured on the palate with a medium-full body, high alcohol (14.5%), medium acidity, and silky tannins that carried flavors of leather to mingle with the fruit, pepper, and flowers sensed on the nose.

The Barbare was a better match for the sandwich than was this wine, but I enjoyed the pairing nonetheless as the wine really amped up the thyme flavors in the sandwich.

Join the #Winophiles discussion!

Don’t forget to check out what the rest of the #winophiles gang discovered in their Côtes du Rhône explorations and join our discussion on Twitter. Just follow the #winophiles hashtag on Saturday, September 19 at 8 am PST/11 am EST/6 pm IST.

• A Côtes du Rhône from Franck Balthazar and A Deconstructed Pairing by Crushed Grape Chronicles
• A Côtes du Rhône Tasting by Keep the Peas
• All the Colors of Côtes du Rhône with Famille Perrin by Somm’s Table
• A Trio of Côtes du Rhône Pairings by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
• A Window Into The Côtes du Rhône Through Maison M. Chapoutier by Avvinare
• Back on the Rhône Again by Christy Majors
• Beef Tongue Stew with a Côtes du Rhône Gigondas by A Day in the Life on the Farm
• Côtes du Rhône and Clearwater Camping: Charcuterie in God’s Country by Our Good Life
• Côtes du Rhône: Essential French Wines by L’Occassion
• Lamb Meatballs Paired with Côtes du Rhône by Always Ravenous
• Leaning Savory with a 2016 Alain Jaume Côtes du Rhône by My Full Wine Glass
• Rhône Roam #3: Crozes-Hermitage Is Syrah, Condrieu Equals Viognier — Paired with Fish Dishes by Wine Predator
• Rhône Wine with Brisket by Cooking Chat
• Turkey Does the Côtes du Rhône by The Quirky Cork
• What the Heck is Côtes du Rhône Villages? by Wining with Mel