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HomeRed Wine#MerlotMe with Three Turkish Merlots #WinePW

#MerlotMe with Three Turkish Merlots #WinePW

 


This month the #WinePW group is taking advantage of October being #MerlotMe month. See the original invitation from Jeff at Food Wine Click! here. I have been unaccountably excited about this theme. For years I maintained a strong ‘no Merlot’ policy but have really come to appreciate this grape. And understand my previous prejudice for what it was: experience with bad wine. This theme also makes it easy for me to participate in the discussion with my usual raison d’être: Turkish wine.

We have a lot of Merlot in Turkey due to the general popularity of the Bordeaux varieties. Like every other wine producing country, we have really good Merlot, really bad Merlot, and everything in between. What’s really cool though is that we also have some kind of experimental Merlot wines. That’s what I chose to look at for #MerlotMe month: three Turkish Merlots made in three completely different styles.

For some reason the menu for this also came really easily. I paired the first two Merlots with thick cut steaks served with both a truffled plum jam and a rosemary fig sauce. The harvest side salad combined greens with fresh pears, dried figs, pecans, and a fig balsamic dressing. As a second side dish I continued the fruit theme with pumpkin risotto dressed with dried cranberries, goat cheese, and Austrian black gold (aka pumpkin seed oil). The third wine I paired with chocolate pot de creme.

Arda Kuşlu Late Harvest Merlot, 2018

Arda has experimented with a couple iterations of late harvest Merlot. After letting the grapes hang longer than usual, they dry them on racks similarly to the Italian appassimento process. This year for the first time the winery released a dry wine they’d made with late harvest Merlot grapes that air dried for two weeks. The wine aged for eight months in French oak barrels and underwent no filtration prior to bottling.

Perhaps because I had Valpolicella on my mind but Arda’s Late Harvest Merlot really reminded me of Amarone in the bouquet. Very rich aromas of black pepper, fresh and dried figs, brown spices, and chocolate lifted from the wine straight off the pour. A pleasingly silky texture slipped across the tongue carrying intense flavors reflective of the nose joined by rosemary. Medium-bodied with high alcohol (15% abv) and medium plus, lively acidity this was very enjoyable.

Of the two dry wines this went the best with the food. The figgy richness complimented all the food flavors and the highish acidity cut through the steak. We also discovered that the truffle flavors in the plum sauce and in the salami we had on the side had a very interesting effect on the wine. The truffle flavor brought out a brightness in the wine and changed the flavor profile to fresh red currants!

Chateau Nuzun Merlot, 2013

Chateau Nuzun’s Merlot, made with organic grapes, aged 15 months in French and American oak, and unfiltered shared similar flavors to the Arda but was a very different wine. A deeper, more opaque ruby than the Arda, it had a much more savory character. Intense aromas of cedar, black pepper, cigar box, and rosemary along with dried black cherry and fig wrapped my senses in a kind of old-timey, gentleman’s club feeling. Or what I imagine one would smell like! The tannins in the wine snuck up on me. It was only after swallowing that I noticed them clinging to the inside of my cheeks. High acidity helped balance the high alcohol (also 15% abv) and the subversive tannins while palate flavors faithfully represented the intense bouquet.

If the first wine was a perfect match for the food, the Chateau Nuzun was a fine one. The food and wine were friendly but definitely not lovers.

Gali Bağları‌ Eternity, 2013

Gali Bağları‌ sits at a high elevation where the Gallipoli Peninsula meets the mainland. It’s elevation, coupled with the narrowness of the Peninsula means that the vineyards enjoy breezes from both the Aegean Sea and the Sea of Marmara. The view ain’t half bad either. Gali’s Eternity was the first semi-sweet Merlot to hit the market here. Late harvested grapes (although not dried like Arda’s) which were then aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

Deep purple ruby on the pour with a rich and layered nose full of dried fruits like date, plum, and fig as well as cassis, cinnamon, clove, and rosemary. Sipping revealed a silky and weighty texture from the residual sugar but with a high acidity to balance it all and moderate (13.5%) alcohol. There were also persistent some walnut skin tannins that really clung to tongue. Flavors of fig balsamic, cassis, and honey-soaked walnuts lingered pleasantly.

How did it pair with the chocolate pot de creme? Not particularly well which disappointed me. I’ve often enjoyed semi and full sweet red wines with chocolate desserts but in these case the two were better individually.

Join the #MerlotMe #WinePW discussion!

Don’t forget to check out what the rest of the #WinePW gang discovered in their #MerlotMe explorations and join our discussion on Twitter. Just follow the #WinePW hashtag on Saturday, October 10 at 8 am PST/11 am EST/6 pm IST.

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29 Comments

  • October 9, 2020
    Wendy Klik

    Thank you for sharing these wines that I would have otherwise never heard of. Perfect pairings.

  • October 10, 2020
  • October 10, 2020
    Nicole Ruiz Hudson

    As usual, your balcony dining photos have transported me. Thanks for sharing these different takes on this grape! Also, I’m also a bit surprised that last one didn’t work with the Pot de creme, but they look/sound delicious individually.

    • October 11, 2020
      admin

      Thank you, Nicole! And yes, I was really surprised the last one didn’t work! I’m wondering if maybe I used the wine in the dessert? I have some left so I suppose I can experiment further!

  • October 11, 2020
    gwendolyn alley

    This is an amazing menu! Every dish sounds delightful and delicious. I’ve never had Turkish wine and you’ve intrigued me!

    • October 11, 2020
      admin

      Thank you, Gwendolyn! This was a really fun menu to plan.

  • October 11, 2020
    Payal

    Love this! Merlot is such a shape-shifter depending on how its treated. The Arda and pairing sound delightful!

    • October 11, 2020
      admin

      Thanks, Payal! Yes, the Arda really was the winner for pairing!

  • October 11, 2020
    David

    Definitely some interesting Merlots! I don’t think I’ve had one that would remind me of Valpolicella. The sauce for the steak sounds amazing!

    • October 11, 2020
      admin

      Honestly I think I went into thinking about Amarone already given the way the wine was made so that likely colored my impression a bit!

  • October 11, 2020
    Jane

    I think I could become more of a red meat eater with your sauces – truffle plum jam and rosemary fig sauce, yes please!!!

    • October 12, 2020
      admin

      The truffled plum I can’t take credit for, I bought it in Budapest, but it went so well with both the meat and the wine, as did the rosemary fig (which was mine). I thought fruit sauce would help highlight the fruit flavors of the wines.

  • October 11, 2020
    robincgc

    So many styles! I love that Arda is making a Merlot in an appassimento style!
    I agree with Jane! I was drooling when you mentioned the truffle plum jam and rosemary fig sauce. And then the pumpkin risotto dressed with dried cranberries, goat cheese, and pumpkin seed oil! I want to learn more about this “Austrian Black Gold”.
    I’m sorry your dessert didn’t pair as well as you had hoped.
    Thanks so much for sharing these amazing Turkish Wines!

    • October 12, 2020
      admin

      Thanks, Robin! Regarding the Austrian Black Gold…I’ve had pumpkin seed oil made in other countries but it’s nothing compared to Austria’s. It’s so dark green that it looks black. They totally revere it, especially Steiermark. I had a quick look at Amazon and there is a Styrian Pumpkinseed oil from Castelmuro available that looks like the real deal!

  • October 11, 2020
    Lauren

    Thanks for sharing such different Merlot styles; I don’t know much about Turkish wines in general but each of these sounds interesting and tasty in its own way. And I am smitten with the idea of a rosemary fig sauce – how delicious!

    • October 12, 2020
      admin

      I had a lot of fun learning about the different styles of Merlot here myself! Before this I had not really thought about it. There’s another I was tempted to include as well, a completely unfiltered natural ferment. I think that might need it’s own post before #Merlober is over!

  • October 12, 2020
    Lynn

    Such unique wines you found Andrea. I’d also think the semi-dry would go with chocolate… perhaps it was the higher acidity? I’m curious with the appassimento wine, was it their intent to make an Amarone style? You have me craving figs to make sauce to preserve for use over the winter!

    • October 12, 2020
      admin

      I still have some of that semi-dry left and I do want to try it with other chocolaty things. Regarding the other, yes it was absolutely their intent to make an Amarone-style wine. They’ve been playing with the concept for a few years and in fact I have a bottle of theirs somewhere that they made with appasimento Merlot but finished it sweet. This is the first year they’ve released a dry version.

  • October 13, 2020
    Martin Redmond

    What a delicious menu (you had me at truffled plum jam – but you continued to pile on;-) I’m loving your wine choices too!

    • October 13, 2020
      admin

      Thanks Martin! It was really such a fun menu to plan. I realized I have two or three more Merlot wines so I’m hoping to create some equally delicious pairings for them yet this month!

  • October 13, 2020
    Linda Whipple, CSW

    The Arda Kuşlu Late Harvest Merlot made in the Italian appassimento process sounds like the kind of wine I’d love – especially with the truffled plum jam and a rosemary fig sauce. What a find!

    • October 13, 2020
      admin

      I’m sorry to say the truffled plum sauce was not of my design but it certainly has me thinking of other truffle pairings for Merlot!

  • October 13, 2020
    Lori

    Merlot really has had a bad wrap, but as you said, a lot of the problem was that there was really a lot of bad wine out there. With the advancements in viticulture we luckily now have so many excellent ones to choose from!

    • October 14, 2020
      admin

      That’s exactly it, Lori. I think too much Merlot has been made at the bulk “quality” category and colored a lot opinions about the grape.

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