Akberg: A Wistful Longing
Disclaimer: This post includes wines received as a sample. All opinions are my own.
Saudade (sauw-dad) is one of those great words that has no direct translation in English. It’s a Portuguese and Galician word derived from the Latin for solitude, but means so much more. Described often as a “Portuguese way of life”, saudade encapsulates a “constant feeling of absence, the sadness of something that’s missing, wistful longing for completeness or wholeness and the yearning for the return of what is now gone, a desire for presence as opposed to absence…”
That’s a lot of pressure for one word to carry! And because apparently the word wasn’t working hard enough already, Aegean winery Akberg located just outside Selcuk near Ephesus has an entire line of wines carrying the name. While not new, its Saudade line is not one I see around a lot. The line features international grapes such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. I wondered at first what these grapes had to do with the saudade concept. The last thing we’re missing in this country is any one of these grapes. However, Akberg’s description of the word goes on to include “the love that remains”.
Akberg Saudade Chardonnay, 2021
Akberg’s Chardonnay grapes from Tekirdağ, grown at 45 meters in heavy clayey soils.
I assumed based on the (clear) bottle and price point that the wine had no oak aging, so was surprised by the wafts of smoky vanilla coming off the wine. Out from under that, peaked aromas of citrus, tangerine, melon, and white flowers. More tropical flavors followed on the palate along with citrus curd and notes of vanilla cream while honeysuckle petals decorated the finish. Medium-bodied with 13.5% alcohol, a rounded feeling, and enough acidity to hold up everything going on.
Overall, a very drinkable, very obviously Chardonnay wine. One with a pretty killer label no less.
Akberg Saudade Syrah, 2021
Like the Chardonnay and the blend below, Akberg’s Saudade Syrah gave no indication of oak aging on the label but I’m going to go ahead and assume the wine at least caught a glimpse of something vaguely resembling a barrel.
Deeply colored in the glass with plummy fruit aromas accompanied by notes of smoke and black pepper. Sipping revealed notes of plums, ripe figs, and black cherries along with hints of cedar. Medium-bodied with surprisingly low alcohol (only 12.5%!), unripe tannins which dissipated fairly quickly, nice acidity, and a medium finish. Easy to drink and enjoyable.
Personally, I really like the label concept for Akberg’s red Saudade wines. The black label with this stark circle mirrors the emptiness and sadness of the word.
Akberg Saudade Cabernet Sauvingon – Merlot, 2021
For the Saudade blend, Akberg uses Cabernet Sauvignon from Izmir, grown at 400 meters in limestone, sandy, and stony soils and Merlot from Tekirdağ, grown at 45 meters in limestone and loamy soils.
Dense and darkly colored, almost black in the glass. Aromas of brown spices, red currant, dried plum, vanilla…there’s a bit of complexity here. Tannins almost rip carrying flavors of brown spices, forest floor, a touch of blue plum to a medium finish. Medium-bodied with 13.5% abv. Generally a nice enough wine but I would have liked a little more fruit on the palate. It was hard to find any.
Curious about Akberg’s wines? You can check out all my reviews here!
No Comments