An Exploration of Greece’s Malagousia
It seems difficult to think of a time when Greece and Malagousia were not synonymous. Granted my entrée to Greek wine is recent. But I feel like I learned about Assyrtiko and Malagousia at a similar pace. And yet, until the 90s, Malagousia was largely unheard of. In the 1970s Professor Logothetis from the Agricultural University of Thessaloniki rented a small plot of land from Yiannis Carras. There he planted several grapes he’d encountered on his travels around Greece, including Malagousia. While his early plantings were vinified with other grapes, Evangelos Gerovassiliou, then winemaker at Domaine Carras, quickly realized its potential. He began propagating the variety at Domaine Carras and in his own vineyards…and that as they say, is history.
Malagousia is an aromatic grape variety. It shows a lot of fruit with ripe peaches and apricots, floral aromas, and green pepper. My first few encounters with it made me think of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. It shows affinity for oak and can make Muscat-like sweet wines if left on the vine. This is one of my favorite varieties and I never let a trip to Greece go by without opening one (or three!) bottles.
Boutari Domaine Roxane Matsa, 2017
One cannot talk about Malagousia without talking about Domaine Roxane Matsa. While not as well documented as the contributions of Gerovassiliou, Matsa had an arguably more instrumental role in the grape’s overnight success. In addition to planting it in her own vineyards in Attica, she willing gave away large amounts of cuttings and vines to any interested grower. For her contribution to the preservation of viticulture Matsa, was declared “Wine Personality of 2001” by ELDOIN (Greek Wine Writers Association). At Domaine Roxane Matsa, a cooperation between Matsa and Domaine Boutari, she still grows (organically) Malagousia and her wine is considered one of the leading styles of Malagousia. Here, in the Attica PGI, she vinifies Malagousia with 8-10 hours of skin contact and matures it sur lie for six months.
Alcohol: 13.5% abv
Appearance: Intense medium lemon
Nose: Intense tropical fruits, mango, peach, white roses, herbs
Palate: Bursting with fruit and acidity, medium plus perfumed finish, lively, minty, crisp, and clean
Ktima Gerovassiliou Late Harvest, 2012
Based in the Papamola region of Epanomi, south of Thessaloniki, Ktima Gerovassiliou clearly sets a high bar for the standard of Malagousia. Almost any time I see a Malagousia in an Athens restaurant it’s from Gerovassiliou. In fact, I think it was the very first one I ever tried! In addition to the dry wine I wrote about previously, Gerovassiliou also makes a late harvest sweet Malagousia.
They don’t make this wine every year; only in years the weather permits the grapes longer hang time. Fermentation takes place in French oak barrels over a number of months. The wines then ages for three years in the same barrels.
Nice straw gold colour, lively aroma, viscous with flavours of apricot, pear, and mango. The acidity is enough to provide grip and a sweet lusty finish.
Alcohol: 13% abv
Appearance: medium gold
Nose: A little shy at first the slowly unfurling aromas of citrus, stone, and tropical fruits
Palate: Viscosity and sugar balanced by a zip of acidity giving the wine a pleasant but not overpowering sweetness. Flavors of apricot and mango with a touch of lemon curd.
Domaine Papagiannakos Kalogeri Malagousia, 2017
Located in the Attica PGI not so far from Athens is Domaine Papagiannakos. Now run by the family’s third generation, I had the opportunity a couple years ago to visit this thoroughly modern winery. A number of their wines are based on the Savatiano grape, but their Malagousia was my favorite of the lot.
Alcohol: 12.5% abv
Appearance: medium intense lemon
Nose: Fruity with lemon, orange, and mango followed by sage and a flinty mineral aroma
Palate: Lively and citrussy acidity greets you first here with juicy mango and peach flavors followed by flint and herbs mid palate where the wine rounds out a little. Refreshing and charming, this wine just invites you to keep coming back for another sip!
Melmar Winery Mystic Path, 2016
This wine I drank out one night with friends. I cannot say I’ve seen any wines from Melmar Winery before or after, but I think I should look on my next trip! Located in Samothrace, Melmar Winery has operated only since 2013. They make wines with Malagousia, Assyrtiko, Mavroudi, and Syrah with grapes sourced from around larger (Greek) Thrace.
Alcohol: 12.5% abv
Color: very pale lemon, nearly colorless
Nose: Delicate with gooseberry, citrus, and white petals
Palate: Citrussy and zesty with a greener expression of green bell pepper and fresh mint.
Ktima Sabanis Premium Selection, 2017
Located in Evia, also not too far from Athens, is Ktima Sabanis. Despite the proximity though, I don’t often see their wines in Athens. Which I think is a real shame. Both this Malagousia and the Assyrtiko I’ve had have been lovely. Other than the fact that this Malagousia falls under the Steea Ellada PGI; I know exactly zip about this winery. The website doesn’t work and my Wines of Greece book only lists it as being in Evia but gives no other information. Let’s crack on with the wine anyway!
Alcohol: 12% abv
Color: medium gold
Nose: Fruity and floral, ripe stone and tropical fruits
Palate: Dry and light with zesty acidity, juicy peach and mango fruits, and a dash of minerality. Lovely.