Büyülübağ Shah A Wine for the Long Haul
An embarrassingly long time ago, I received two vintages of the Büyülübağ Shah from Turkey’s Oenotrian Wine Club. The bottles belonged to a collection of wines from three wineries. Two bottles of different vintages of the same wine to see how well (or not!) Turkish wine ages. Interestingly enough, this has emerged as a relatively new consideration in the Turkish wine world. Only recently (maybe the last 10-12) have wineries really invested in keeping a library of their own wines. As a result, the largest collection of aged Turkish wines is in the hands of a private collector.
Büyülübağ, located on the island of Avşa in the Sea of Marmara is a leading producer of quality wines in Turkey. Owner Alp Törüner is deeply involved not only in his winery but in the industry as well serving as a member on Turkey’s winery association board. His Shah blend holds a spot at the pinnacle of his winemaking. I’d previously had the 2010 Shah so was really curious to try both an older and newer vintage.
Both of the vintages I received from the Oenotrain Wine Club received blended together Syrah (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), and Merlot (10%) and come in at 14.5% abv. However, there were some differences along the way in winemaking.
The Büyülübağ Shah 2008 underwent nine days of maceration and spent 14 days fermenting whereas the 2014 had only eight days maceration but 16 fermenting. Additionally, the 2008 spent 12 months in one to three year-old barrels followed by another 12 months in the bottle. The 2014 also aged 12 months in barrel but only eight in bottle prior to release.
So technical jargon aside, how did they taste?! Pretty darn good.
Büyülübağ Shah 2014 Tasting Notes
A medium intense ruby in the glass, the 2014 revealed a fruit bomb of aromas. Blackberry compote and boysenberry combined with sweet spices, hints of vanilla, and a fresh lilt of grated lemon zest.
The wine unfurled in the mouth with an evolving palate of tart fruits, spices, and a nutty coffee finish framed by structured tannins.
Büyülübağ Shah 2008 Tasting Notes
A deep and broody garnet, the 2008 kept very well. One whiff and I was in love with this. The bouquet was as broody as the color; making me especially happy to be drinking this in front of crackling fire! Turkish coffee, Vietnamese cinnamon, stable, and bitter cocoa, mingled with olive tapanade.
Tannins here were still firm but in they way a velvet gloved fist would be. Dried fruits like fig and prune dusted with cinnamon gave way to complex layers of coffee and salted caramel budino.
While it might only be 11 years old, it really showed the potential the Shah has for ageing. One might not be able to build a conclusion from this that ‘all’ Turkish wine can age well…but I sure am going to go through my cellar soon and earmark things for some longer rest time.