Gallay Kézmüves Pince and the Tokaji Grape You Don’t Really Know
Have you ever heard of Kabar? If you know wine from Tokaj or from Hungary at all, you’ve probably had some Furmint and Hárslevelű. You’ve probably also had Kabar though without even knowing it. We don’t see a lot of varietal Kabar, but Bükk-based winery Gallay Kézmüves Pince is changing that.
Gallay Kézműves Pince is the first family-owned and operated small production winery in the heart of Bükk region in Nyékládháza (located pretty much halfway between Eger and Tokaj). The family has 11 hectares there on which they raise Cserszegi Fűszeres, Kabar, Pinot Blanc, Zenit, Turán, and Zweigelt. Since they established their winery in 2012, they have maintained their dedication to sustainable agriculture and environmentally and socially friendly business practices.
Kabar, also knowns as Tarcal 10, was created at the Tarcal research institute in 1967. A crossing of Hárslevelű and Bouvier, it was developed for Tokaji wines. The grape’s naturally soft, honeyed flavors, high natural sugars, high acidity, and susceptibility to botrytis make it perfect for Tokaji wines. It’s been allowed (in small amounts) in the region’s blends since 2006.
Gallay Kézmüves Pince Kabar, 2019
I’ve read about this grape and tried blends that included it, but I’d never seen a varietal Kabar until I saw this wine from Gallay.
Grapefruit, rangpur lime, green apple, white flowers, flint, and wet stone framed by fresh acidity. A delicate floral streak along with citrus lingered on a surprisingly salty finish. Medium-bodied with 13% alcohol and a pleasant floral-salty character.
Perhaps made with Tokaj in mind, but Gallay is doing nice things with it in Bükk! Is this going to knock off anyone’s socks? No, it’s not that kind of a grape, I think. But I do so enjoy knowing what the individual grapes that go into a blend taste like on their own.