Get to Know the Grape: Kalecik Karası
Now one of the most widely known grapes in Turkey, Kalecik Karası was nearly lost to history.
This grape was nearly extinct until the 1970s when it was reborn. While studying for his Ph.D. in agriculture at Ankara University, Prof. Dr. Y. Sabit Ağaoğlu elected to form his thesis around clonal studies of dried Kalecik Karası vines. He finished his thesis and wound up with not only his doctorate but also a small vineyard. Rather than abandon it, and the grape he revived, he and wife decided to continue to work the vineyard and make wine. Sadly, his wife has since passed but the godfather of Kalecik Karası continues to make natural wine entirely by hand with it in the winery he and his wife named for their daughter, Tomurcukbağ.
The grape originated in the pebbly clay loam soils of Mid-Northern Anatolia. While still grown mostly in that area is can also be found in the Aegean (Denizli, Manisa, Uşak, Elmalı), Mid-Southern Anatolia (Nevşehir / Cappadocia), and Thrace (Tekirdağ). It’s name Kalecik Karası literally means “black of Kalecik.” Like many black grapes in Turkey, it takes its name from its town of origin. In this case, Kalecik near the Turkish capitol Ankara; which is where Prof. Dr. Y. Sabit Ağaoğlu planted his vines in the 70s.
Despite the relative darkness of the grape skins, Kalecik Karası produces light to medium bodied red wines. Many consider this grape to be Turkey’s answer to Pinot Noir. And like Pinot Noir, Kalecik Karası has great ageing potential and is believed to be the country’s most ageable grape variety. Known for its distinctive cotton candy aroma, Kalecik Karası at its worst is a simple fresh and fruity wine without complexity but with enjoyable fruit and candy aromas. However, when made well, the grape is capable of producing wines with elegance and complexity and an aroma profile that includes: red berries, cherry, strawberry, raspberry, cotton candy, pyrazine, game, and stable.
A flexible grape, Kalecik Karası is made into a variety of red wine styles aged in stainless steel, oak, and even amphora. It appears as a varietal and in blends, is a popular grape for making rosé wines, and even blanc de noirs white. Kaelcik-based winery Vinkara even used this grape in the country’s first traditional method sparkling wine, Yaşasın.
Kalecik Karası pairs well with lamb and beef-based dishes, grilled meat, as well as smoked/preserved meats; grilled vegetables, particularly tomato, eggplant, green peppers, and mushrooms; içli köfte, bulgar, and tomato sauces. When made as a red wine especially, dishes featuring rosemary, thyme, cumin, garlic, lemon, walnut, pistachio, paprika, cinnamon, clove, black pepper, sumac, pumpkin seed, pumpkin seed oil, and truffle are good matches.
As one of the most popular Turkish black grapes finding a Kalecik Karası generally presents little challenge. Tomurcukbağ, Doluca, Vinolus, Gordias, Gelveri, Prodom, Vinkara, Gürbüz Winery, Kutman, Argos, Kavaklidere, Chamlija, Kayra, Pamukkale, Suvla, Turasan, and Diren all produce single varietal (and blends) dry red wines with Kalecik Karası. Vino Dessera produces a blanc de noirs and Vinkara, Gordias, Kayra, Sevilen, Turasan, Pamukkale, and Ezel produce rosé wines. Vinkara also produces two traditional method sparkling wines, Yaşasın and Yaşasın Roze with Kalecik Karası.
Like Kalecik Karası? Check out also:
- France: Carignan, Carmanere, Cinsault, Côt (Malbec), Gamay, Grenache
- Spain: Garnacha
- Austria: Zweigelt, Blauer Portugieser, Blaufränkisch
- Hungary: Kadarka, Portugieser
- Greece: Limnioa, Agiorgitiko, Fokiano
- Italy: Barbera, Valpolicella, Nerello Mascalese, Montepulciano
- Georgia: Takveri
- Turkey: Ada Karası, Foça Karası, Çalkarası, Fersun, Karasakız, Merzifon Karası
Click see my reviews of Kalecik Karası-based wines.