Get to Know the Grape: Karasakız
While for reasons beyond my ken Karasakız is not more popular in Turkey, it is certainly one of the country’s most facile grapes.
Also called ‘Kuntra’ the Karasakız (kar-ah-sah-kiz) grape is the oldest grape variety grown on the island of Bozcaada. Records show it growing here for at least 500 years. It likes a warmer climate and, in addition to Bozcaada, also grows on the southern part of the Gallipoli Peninsula and the Sea of Marmara island, Avşa. On Bozcaada, the grape is known exclusively as Kuntra. Here, where high winds can severely damage grapes and grape leaves, vines grow in head-trained, goblet bushes to protect the grapes. Elsewhere where wind presents less of a problem, Karasakız vines are trellis-trained.
The medium-sized, round berries achieve a deep, purple-blue color when fully ripe. They grow in heavy, multi-lobed bunches. Karasakız grapes generally produce fruity and spicy medium-bodied wines with low tannins and medium acidity. Black pepper is often the dominant flavor along with red fruits like cherry and strawberry, dried fruits, sweet spices, candy and thyme.
Karasakız wines are becoming increasingly easy to find in a variety of styles including: rosé, unoaked red wines, oak-aged and reserve red wines, traditional method blanc de noir and rosé sparkling wines, and sweet wines. This versatility is also reflected in the range of foods with which it can pair.
Food Pairing
These wines pair really well with things like savory tarts and pies. If you’re not feeling that fancy though, toss a burger on the grill and whether pairing with a rosé or red you’ll be happy! And speaking of burgers, Karasakız can pair with a lot of different proteins likes bacon, beef, chorizo, duck, goose, lamb, pork, salmon…go wild!
And not just meats, the grape is pretty veggie-friendly too. Greens like peppery arugula will pair well (again, rosé or red!). Vegetables like eggplant, leeks, mushrooms, pumpkin, red peppers, squash, sweet potatoes, and even zucchini go well with these wines, particularly if you’re roasting/grilling/charring them. Fruits are not to be ignored here either. Try adding things like currants, dried dates, dried or fresh fig, and pomegranate to your food.
When cooking any of these, a few herbs and spices to keep in mind include: balsamic, bay leaf, bitter chocolate (think cocoa nibs), black pepper, cinnamon, clove, cumin, herbs de Provence, lavender, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, savory, sumac, sweet paprika, thyme, truffle, and walnut.
We mustn’t forget the cheeseboard! Depending on the style of Karasakız you’ve got, the wines can pair with a broad range of cheese. When you’ve splashed out with bubbles try soft, bloomy-rind cheese like brie and camembert. The sweet wine will stand up to stronger blue cheeses. The rosé and red wines can pair with semi-hard (Gruyère, gravyer, comte) to hard and aged cheeses (parmesan, Old Dutch Master, aged and flavored Goudas) and those of the smoked or pungent arena.
Producers to check out
Sadly, at the moment, there are very few: Çamlıbağ, Corvus, and Talay (for Kuntra) and Suvla, Paşaeli, Asmadan, and Yaban Kolektif.
If you like Karasakız also try: Acıkara, Boğazkere, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Karalahna, Limnioa, Marselan, Mavrotragano, Monastrell, Negro Amaro, Ojaleshi, Pinotage, Primitivo, Saperavi, Tannat, Xinomavro
Click to see my reviews of Karasakız wines.