Get to Know the Grape: Papazkarası
Some Turkish grape names are very straightforward. Kalecik Karası, for example, means “black from Kalecik.” Very little to argue about there. Others, like Gök, have unknown origins. A few, like Karalahna, have hotly contested translations. Papazkarası (pa-paz-ka-rah-sih) is the only grape with a spelling dispute! Wineries seem to be split down the middle on whether they spell it Papazkarası, with a ‘z’, or Papaskarası, with an ‘s’.
However it gets spelled, one thing everyone agrees on is that this Thracian variety makes darn good wine.
The name means “black of the pope” or “pope’s black” which allegedly goes back to the Byzantine era when wines made from this grape were a favorite of Constantinople-based popes. Its history predates even that though and goes back some 1,500 years.
It’s one of the few grapes in Turkey for which we have a pretty definite lineage as well. Papazkarası is the result Of a natural crossing of Balkan black grape Prokupac and Romanian white grape Alba Imputotato which places its natural home in the upper area of Thrace around Kırklareli.
This round, nearly black-colored berry grows best in clay-loam soils and dry conditions. It has the ability to make versatile wines that are semi-aromatic, fruit-forward, and naturally highly acidic with aromas and flavors of red and black fruits, olives, purple flowers, pepper, and spice. It takes well to oak and as such produces several styles of (usually) medium-bodied red wines, rosés, and blanc de noir white wines.
Food Pairing
As a flexible grape, Papazkarası is also pretty food-friendly and pairs well with a variety of meat (beef, chicken, duck, lamb), and vegetable dishes (roasted vegetables, stuffed peppers/eggplant). Try it with semi-hard and aged cheeses like Dutch Master, Gouda, Gravyer, grilled halloumi, Gruyère, mild cheddar, parmesan, or Saganaki.
Try cooking with fruits and vegetables like celery, celery root, eggplant, dried fig, fig, mushrooms, onions, pumpkin, and tomatoes. Papazkarası also pairs with a wide range of herbs and spices like allspice, anise, balsamic, bay leaf, black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, fenugreek, garlic, green pepper, herbs de Provence, lavender, nutmeg, peanuts, pumpkin oil & seeds, sesame, squash, thyme, truffle, walnut, and white pepper.
Producers to check out
This grape has seen a burst of popularity over the last years. Chamlija was probably the first to really put some effort into it while Melen has also worked with with for some time. Other producers to look for are Arda (red, pink, and white), Paşaeli (red), Saranta Chateau Murou (red), Edrine (red, pink, and white), Arcadia (white & red blend), Akberg (red), Prius (red), and Ezel (red and pink).
Arcadia now makes a traditional method sparkling wine with it!! Too expensive for me to have tried but I really wish I could.
Click to see my reviews of Papazkarası wines.
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