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Heraki, Changing the Face of Sultaniye

 

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When you hear the grape “Sultaniye”, what comes to mind? Table grapes or raisins probably. If you live in Turkey likely also pekmez or rakı. Maybe wine. But fine wine? Probably not. Heraki is going to change that for you. There’s some pretty crap Sultaniye out there. There’s good Sultaniye as well (I’m looking at you, Paşaeli). But my first sip of the Heraki Akuarela was life changing. 

But before we get there.

Heraki is the new label from Fulya Akinci and José Hernandez-Gonzalez. This Wife-husband winemaking duo (she’s Turkish, he’s Spanish) have worked as consulting winemakers in Turkey for years. They’re behind some great wines from places like Karnas, Vinolus, Trio Wine (the closest Fulya has come, I think, previously to her own label), Hus, and Yaban Kolektif. The couple now has their own wines produced entirely from native Turkish grapes Sultaniye, Boğazkere, and Çal Karası.

Because Sultaniye gets looked at as more of a table and ingredient grape, people massively underappreciate how good the wine can be. Heck, until I tried these, I was one of those people. The grapes Fulya and José used for their wines come from 60+ year old, dry farmed, bush vines at 850 meters in Çal.

They make two wines with Sultaniye: Akuarela and Delta V.

Heraki Akuarela Sultaniye, 2020

Let’s start with these being 2020 wines that they only released at the tail end of 2022. How they had that much patience, I don’t even know. 

If we’re going to separate wines into “basic” and “reserve” then the Akuarela is the “basic”. But they’re ain’t nuthin’ basic about it. The grapes fermented and aged in egg-shaped stainless steel. Granted I don’t know what everyone is doing all the time (I feel they should email me but apparently I’m the only one who thinks so) but I haven’t heard of anyone else here using tanks like this. 

The result? A wine that poured a pretty, clean, deep lemon and a nose that knocked my socks clean off. It was unlike anything I expected. Dew-covered tangerine fresh from the tree, apple/pear, branches of tarragon and honeysuckle, and the lightest whiff of buttered bread. 

Already excited and sockless, I took a sip and that is when my world shifted. POW!! (and SNICK!! and BAMP!! and all the other comic book onomatopoeia). Riesling-level acidity with a slight effervescence and explosive flavors of tangerine, kumquat, trillium flowers, and a honeyed quince finish. Medium-bodied but low alcohol (11.5%), mid-weight palate, and a nice finish.

So much wow happening here. 

Heraki Delta V Sultaniye, 2020

Next up, the Delta V Sutlaniye. Same grapes but these matured for nine months in (according the the label) old oak. Was it all that old though?

This one poured a deeper lemon than the first with a nose that I found to initially display quite an oaky character. Top notes of smoke and butter followed by stone fruit and ripe banana. The palate delivered great acidity not at all muted by the oak ageing and flavors very faithful to the nose. Joining those were flavors of smoked cream and pastry; but not pastry pastry. More like the biscuit of a peach cobbler. A little fuller (but not full-bodied) thanks to that oak with the same low alcohol.

Honestly, not my jam. Certainly not as much as the other. The oak may have been older but for me, it took over.

I have not been this excited about a wine in a long time. Go out and buy these!! If I’ve left you any, that is. Mensis Mahezen is out of stock. Which I know because, after trying these, I went there and bought them out. You can also find them at Grape Wine Boutique, Casa Botti, Kiffe, Grand Cru, and Santé Wine & More. They’re also thinking about starting their own wine club. Sign me up for that!!!

Please Help Turkey and Syria!

In light of the horrific earthquake that has decimated large areas of Turkey’s south east and northern Syria, please consider donating to one of the relief efforts if you are able:

Animal rights organization Haytap is helping animals affected by the earthquake, and displaced people who need a place to stay with their pets.

Donate to search and rescue efforts in Turkey via Akut. 

Donate to civil society groups working on the ground to provide immediate relief and medium- to long-term recovery to survivors via UK-based Turkey Mozaik Foundation or US-based Turkish Philanthropy Funds.

To support rescue efforts in Syria, donate to White Helmet and SAMS.

Field Ready Türk‎iye (Sahaya Hazır İnovasyon Derneği) is a team of engineers working in Gaziantep, Turkey, and northwest Syria who make cheap, low-tech airbags for search and rescue from buildings which have collapsed. “If we move fast they can make more,” a good friend who previously worked with the team writes. “The workshops in Syria also have vast experience of fixing essential medical equipment, and making insulated shelters – both greatly needed right now”

Follow Jennifer Hattam on Twitter at The Turkish Life for continued updates on organizations accepting donations and needing local assistance.