Kolonics Pincészet, Showcasing the Power of Somló
Several years ago, I went on my first wine tour in Hungary. I’ve been a Hungarian wine lover for years, but before this tour, had never heard of Somló. One short visit (which you can read about here!) and I was an enthusiastic convert to this exciting region.
Somló and Kolonics Pincészet
Hungary is a smallish country so, one logically expects that its wine regions would also be small in size (if not production or quality!). However, the miniscule size of the Somló region still takes one by surprise. It is a single, free-standing (as in not part of a series or foothills etc) hill. You can see the entirety if the hill as you come upon it. A visual aided by it being a lone hill on the otherwise flat Pannonian (or Carpathian, as you will) basin.
While small, this region produces what may be Hungary’s strongest terroir-driven wines. Once upon a time, the basin sat beneath the Pannonian Sea and the Somló hill was an underwater volcano. Over millions of years, the sea receded, leaving behind the (now extinct) basalt soil volcano. Producers here create wines, largely with native grapes, that all carry a distinctive mineral bite. Perhaps part of why I love this region so much is because it concentrates largely on white grape varieties such as: Olaszrizling, Juhfark, Furmint, Hárslevelű, Traminer, Chardonnay, and Müller-Thurgau.
One such producer is Kolonics Pincészet. A small family estate with a history stretching back several generations, the winery works with traditional Somló varieties Furmint, Olaszrizling, Juhfark, and Hárslevelű. Wines macerate on the skins for six to 12 hours, ferment with wild yeast in old acacia barrels, and then usually age in acacia for some time. I quite like their wines and have been lucky enough to have a few before including a delightful sparkling Juhfark.
Kolonics Pincészet Nagy-Somlói Hárslevelű, 2019
Hárslevelű, often more associated with Tokaj, is one of Hungary’s beloved aromatic grape varieties. However, it has come into its own as a grape that makes both outstanding varietal wines and dry wines. The basalt soils of Somló gives this flashy and exuberant grape an interesting punk rock edge.
Fulsome and rich on the nose with quince jam, clear honey, acacia blossom, and brown spices. Flavor intensity, like the aromas, was pronounced, showcasing many of the same flavors as those sensed on the nose. Echoes of quince but leaning more towards caramelized pineapple, white flowers, and spicy cinnamon supported by an underlying minerality.
Bold, dry, with high alcohol at 14% but plenty of balance to be found in the fruit and vivacious acidity.
Kolonics Pincészet Nagy-Somlói Furmint, 2019
Like Hárslevelű, Furmint is most well-known as a Tokaj grape, the main Tokaj grape no less. Many people are still wrapping their minds around dry Tokaj wines, let alone Furmint from other areas of the country. If Kolonics Pincészet gives us a yardstick for it, Somlói Furmint is a mineral bomb with vibrant energy and intense flavors.
Spice, honeycomb, honeysuckle, quince, white pepper, allspice, and ginger all game hurtling out of the glass. On the palate, a muscular and textured wine with salty, lively acidity. Like biting into a crisp apple. High alcohol (14%) tensely balance with intense fruit and a long honeyed finish.
If you don’t know wines from the Somló region, Kolonics Pincészet is a great place to start!
*photo of Somló Hegy By Civertan – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, httpscommons.wikimedia.orgwindex.phpcurid=2732700 all other photos my own