LA Wines Challenging the Local Palate
LA Wines holds the record for being one of (if not the!) largest organic vineyards in Turkey. Wines at this beautiful Izmir estate are made with the same amount of care given to the vines. However, what I find the most delightful about this winery is its willingness to experiment and color outside the box. Istanbites and I recently had the chance to sit down with one of LA Wines’ winemakers, Ali Boz, and learn the history of this winery.
Keeping it Clean
In 2010 Lucian Arkas purchased the company Idol Wines. While he renamed the vineyards LA Wines, as a nod to the work done before him he kept the name ‘Idol’ as one of his wine labels. The first task the new crew at LA Wines tackled was to make the vineyards fit for organic certification. According to Ali; this was no mean feat. The 288+ acres, located in the Torbali district of Izmir, sit among several large industrial firms.
A daunting task but it was important to Arkas that the his winery make wine with the fruit characteristics preserved. Their efforts paid off and the winery holds a certification from Ecorcert.
Challenging the local palate
LA Wines further stands out through its grapes. Not only are they organic (a growing trend in Turkey) but the varietals used here are found in few, and in some cases no, other vineyards in Turkey. Sangiovese and Tempranillo were first planted here (but now can be found in several vineyards). Until the recent release of Mozaik’s Mahrem Marselan LA Wines’ Mon Rêve Marselan was the only representation of this grape in Turkey. Additionally, LA Wines is the only producer cultivating Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano) and Chenin Blanc.
We asked Ali why they went to such great lengths to plant these grapes. His answer was simple; because they did not exist here. One of the aims at LA Wines is to find a balance between what consumers think they want and what they could want. By experimenting with different grape types, LA Wines gives Turkish consumers the opportunity to try wine made from a wide variety of both domestic and international grapes but at domestic prices.
This is an increasingly crucial point as the Turkish Lira continues to lose value (30% against the US Dollar this year alone). Despite being one of the oldest wine producing countries in the world, Turkey has little wine culture. Add to that a largely conservative Muslim teetotalling population and you’re selling to a tough crowd.
I can’t speak for native-born domestic market but as a drinker in said market I know LA Wines’s gamble has captured at least my favor, particularly two of the wines in their Mon Rêve series.
LA Wines Mon Rêve Marselan 2014 Tasting Notes
This wine took a silver in 2016 from Mundus Vini and well deserved. For all of its 14% abv it remains medium-bodied with a bright, clear garnet color. Sour cherries and bramble fruit dominate the nose but some swirling reveals aromas of stable and meat. Palate flavors are nearly the opposite of the nose with lots of stable and smoked meat up front and an earthy, berry finish. Very silky texture with medium acid and a long finish.
LA Wines Mon Rêve Viognier 2014 Tasting Notes
The Mon Rêve Viognier is also a medal winner having taken a bronze with the International Wine Challenge. Medium-bodied with 13.5% abv and a bright, medium gold color in the glass. While I quite enjoyed this wine, finding it perfectly quaffable I think the balance was a little off. The nose was delicate and a tad faint but lovely all the same with baked pineapple and citrus aromas. A silky mouth feel was off set by citrussy acid which in turn added a bright note to the pineapple and stone fruit flavors. The only reason I’m calling out the balance on this Viognier is that I could really feel the alcohol. It was very heavy and pulled down the wine a bit.
LA Wines is afraid neither to be challenged nor of challenging others. The winery’s risks have paid off with great flavors, award-winning wines, and a guarantee of quality.