Melen: Good Wine Needn’t Be Expensive
Good wine shouldn’t have to be expensive. Unfortunately that is not always true in Turkey. Someone asked me recently to recommend a wine under 25 TL (about $6). And I really couldn’t do it. Double that price and we can talk.
There are very few wines here priced under 40 TL ($9) that I will drink. It’s not that I’m a snob (well really I am but that’s a different topic). I just prefer to drink wine that a) tastes nice and b) won’t kill me. For every rule there exists and exception. While I still refuse most wines that live at the 25 TL mark there are a few around the 30 threshold, like Melen, that are the exception.
Steeped in History
Melen Winery has been operating in some capacity since the 1920s. A family operation, the original vineyards were established by Ahmet Çetintaş, Now his grandson Cem managed the property. French oak barrels, modern equipment, and chrome tanks have replaced the concrete storage, but the original 1920s stone walls and roofing have been kept to retain the building’s architectural integrity.
The inspiration for the winery’s logo comes form the maker’s mark that appears on ancient amphorae discovered in excavations which,
in ancient times, was how wine was stored and exported in the region. The word melen is probably more than 6000 years old. Vitis vinifera – the wine grape – was first found in riverbeds known as melendis or melen. The area north east of Hoşköy, now known as Güzelköy, where the Cetintas family is from, was called Melen prior to the 1920s.
The winery produces four series of wine: Ganohora, Orpheus, Melen Reserve, and Melen. The Melen series holds the bottom price point but its nice to see that they don’t scrimp on quality. I’ve had several wines from this series and have quite liked both their Tempranillo and Semillon.
Melen Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Tasting Notes
One of the things I like about this wine is that it is simple, but characterful, But by simple I don’t mean wimpy. With 14% ABV it still packs a powerful punch. Vivid aromas of fresh green bell pepper and tobacco dominate the nose. The palate however shows a surprising, softer side of this grape. Still the green bell pepper but now softer and balanced by red fruits, velvety tannins and a medium finish.
I still won’t recommend a 25 TL wine but if you can spring for that extra 5 TL; Melen all the way.