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HomeRed WineMerguez Sausages and a Debut #MerlotMe Wine from Gürbüz #WinePW
Turkish wine

Merguez Sausages and a Debut #MerlotMe Wine from Gürbüz #WinePW

 


It’s Merlober! What else could the #WinePW group be exploring this month than that most divisive of grapes, Merlot? This month’s host Jeff from Food Wine Click!, invitation post invited us all to join in the #MerlotMe celebration and sing the praises of this grape. You can read his invitation here. Join us on Saturday, October 9 at 8am PST / 11am EST / 6pm Istanbul time and join the discussion! Just follow the #WinePW hashtag on Twitter.

The Bordeaux varieties are big in Turkey. While I do not know statistics on how much vineyard area is given over to any particular grape, I do know that they are some of the most popular grapes in Turkey. One just needs to look at the wine on offer to see that! My guess is Merlot’s popularity lags slightly behind Cabernet Sauvignon but is higher than the other black Bordeaux grapes. Essentially, that means that people grow the grape from one end of the country to the other.

Akın Gürbüz

Gürbüz Winery

Over the last few years, Akın Gürbüz has emerged as one of Tukey’s most prominent and talented winemakers. But he didn’t just arrive on the scene. After training at UC Davis and cutting his teeth first in California-based wineries then in New Zealand, he came back to Turkey in 2010 to work for Tekirdağ-based winery Barbare. Soon it was no longer just Barbare. Gürbüz became a winemaking consultant for some of Turkey’s premiere and small production wineries including: Urla, Chateau Kalpak, Likya, Ayda, Doseluna, Chamlija, and Eskibağlar. Eventually, consulting was not enough for him.

In 2015, he began finally to make his own wine under his own label. His first vintage netted him less than 1,000 bottles. Rapid expansion brought him up to the current 20,000 (give or take) bottles. But 1,000 or 20,000…he’s sold every year. Gürbüz sources grapes from both his own vineyards and contract vineyards so what he has changes a bit from year to year. He started with Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, and Misket. Then there was Karalahna, Kalecik Karası, Cabernet Franc, and Cinsault. Now, Merlot. 

Gürbüz  has said: “To be a good wine maker, you need to give it your heart and love it.” He does, and he is.

Committed to sustainable, organic, and biodynamic practices, he is both careful and thoughtful in his winery. Everything in both his vineyards and his winery is done by hand, including the minimum four times daily punch down. Wines are open top fermented, filtered but not fined, and the red see an average of 19 months ageing in French, American, and Hungarian oak with a variety of toasts.

Gürbüz Winemaker’s Selection Merlot, 2019 

2019 was a mixed year for a lot of us! But at least on a winemaking side it was successful for Gürbüz. This was his first year working in his own winery with Merlot. I was lucky enough to visit last fall when the wine was all still in barrel. We tasted through the various barrels (all single plot wines) and he told me which ones would end up in his debut Bordeaux blend (Hieron Oros) and which he would bottle as a single varietal. I don’t think I have ever loved a Merlot more than I did that day!

By the time bottling came around, the Merlot spent 15 months in a combination of different kinds and toasts of oak barrels.

The wine (which I decanted for about two hours prior to drinking) poured a beautiful deep ruby. Freshly roasted coffee beans hit my nose first followed by brown spices, fresh black fig, dried currants, and blueberries. Such richness in the nose; I could have just swirled and sniffed and been happy. But since I’m not insane, of course I also sipped!

A nice level of acidity brightened up the fruit sensed on the nose with tart red currants and heavy summer-ripened blackberries. Jammy black fruits, spice notes like nutmeg and cardamom, and yet more roasted coffee really showed off the excellent use of oak ageing. Tannins were silky and gripped the edges of the tongue but did not overwhelm. Instead they provided an excellent structure to support this full-bodied wine and, along with that nice acidity and fruit, helped balance the rather high alcohol (14.9% abv).

This was a lovely, elegant, and rich wine with complex layers. And it was only a 2019! I cannot wait to see how this is in a few years!

I paired this with pork merguez sausages baked with apples and red onions; an autumn-inspired “harvest” salad with pears, pecans, and dried figs; and roasted sweet potatoes with garlic aioli. It worked okay with the merguez sausages but frankly those didn’t have a lot of flavor. Will not be ordering those again! The Merlot did well with the salad! But the real pairing winner were the roasted sweet potatoes and garlic aioli. The sweet potatoes drew out the fruit in the wine which in turn stood up well to the immense amount of garlic I used.

Merlober’s not over!

Don’t forget to check out the Merlot pairings from the rest of the #WinePW group!

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18 Comments

  • October 8, 2021
    robincgc

    As always, your table looks stunning and I’m drooling as I read this! I must admit a little shame came over me when you mentioned decanting. I am TERRIBLE about decanting. I should remember, but typically the wine ends up decanting in my glass. Any tips would be appreciated!

    • October 9, 2021
      admin

      Thank you, Robin! I am usually really bad about decanting myself. It’s really only with situations like this when I know in the morning what I’m going to be drinking that I manage to do…and I set myself a reminder to actually do it then!

  • October 8, 2021
    CAMILLA M MANN

    Surprised that your Merguez didn’t have a lot of flavor. So sorry! We have a local sausage maker whose Merguez is fantastic. I might have to pick some up to try with a Merlot. Maybe…I will keep you posted.

    • October 9, 2021
      admin

      Please do, Camilla! I honestly don’t know the origin of my sausages. I got them from one of the two online pork dealers in Turkey!

  • October 9, 2021
    Jane

    Intriguing back story to Gürbüz Winery. I would love to try a bottle of that Merlot.
    Your feast looks amazing as always. Sausage can vary so much among producers, I have a local one I love and they change it up seasonally which keeps it interesting. Roasted vegetables and Merlot have been a winner with my food pairings too!

    • October 9, 2021
      admin

      Akın is such an interesting guy! At the moment his wine isn’t in the US but he’s working on getting some there.

  • October 10, 2021
    Nicole Ruiz Hudson

    I’m also surprised that the Merguez lacked flavor, but the rest of the meal sounds delicious! Loved reading Akın Gürbüz story! Thanks for the intro.

    • October 11, 2021
      admin

      I’m not sure honestly where these came from. I don’t question the source of our limited pork products in Turkey! But if they were made locally the lack of flavor does actually make some sense.

  • October 11, 2021
    gwendolyn alley

    Sounds like my kind of winemaker!

  • October 11, 2021
    gwendolyn alley

    Sounds like my kind of winemaker! And I love the pretty plates!

    • October 11, 2021
      admin

      I love these plates so much, thanks Gwendolyn!

  • October 11, 2021
    Lori

    Wow! California-to New Zealand, and back to Turkey. I always love hearing that. Its interesting what they learn and take away from each wine region. Your meal is the perfect Fall Season meal!

    • October 11, 2021
      admin

      Thanks, Lori! Gürbüz’s story is great, and really illustrative of what a lot of winemakers here experience. Many get their winemaking education abroad (CA or Europe) and do some travel and work in vineyards around the world before coming home. And we’re the better for it, I think!

  • October 14, 2021
    MARTIN D REDMOND

    What a great looking spread Andrea! And I’m loving the sound of your Turkish Merlot!

    • October 14, 2021
      admin

      Thank you, Martin! The Merlots here in general are really improving but Akin’s completely impressed me.

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