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Northern Cypriot Chenin Blanc and an Indonesian Feast #Winophiles

 

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This month, Cam from Culinary Adventures with Cam has invited the #Winophiles group to explore French Grapes that Crossed Continents. You can read her invitation here. Often I cannot participate in the winophiles events because I don’t have access to most of the French wine. But French grapes in Turkey we have in spades!

Whether you’ve written a post for the theme or not, join the #Winophiles conversation on Saturday, September 17 at 11 am EST by following the hashtag on Twitter.

French influences on Turkish wine

When the modern Turkish wine industry got started in the late 30s and early 40s, many winery owners looked to Europe for education and inspiration. And by ‘Europe’ I mean France. People came home to Turkey armed with more than the latest winemaking methods and equipment. They also came home with grapes. So many French grapes. Syrah remains not only the most widely-planted international grape in Turkey but also one of the three most planted grapes period.

While French wine aesthetics continue to influence Turkish wine (the number of French winemakers and consultants here staggers the mind), the grapes remain the lasting legacy of those early forays to Europe. Syrah may hold the position of most popular, but a huge range of French grapes grow in Turkish vineyards. Syrah, Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, Merlot, Tannat, Cinsault, Pinot Meunier, Marselan, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Mourvedre, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Gris, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne…and probably a few others I’ve forgot about.

For a similar event last year, I wrote about Semillon, Sauvingon Blanc, and Ekigaïna. This year, thanks to some friends who recently returned from Northern Cyprus, I’m focusing on Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Gris. Indonesian food popped into my mind as a possible decent pairing, especially with the Chenin Blanc, so I made:

• Pulled pork rendang
• Green chili sambal
• Fried chili corn
• Stir-fried vegetable cap cay
• Aromatic turmeric rice

Arcadia Sauvignon Gris Pét-Nat Brut, 2021

Sauvignon Gris, a pink-berried mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, is not wide-spread in Turkey. Of Sauvignon Blanc we have a seemingly never ending supply. But only the Thrace-based winery Arcadia grows Sauvignon Gris. The winery produces several wines with this grape including a blend with Sauvignon Blanc and a blend with Pinot Gris. As of this year, their line up also includes a 100% Sauvignon Gris pét-nat. 

I’ve ordered this wine from the winery twice and swear I got two different wines. When I first had this wine, nothing prevented it from exploding upon opening. It looked significantly hazier, like it was never disgorged, had a creamier mousse, and a riper, mashed pear flavor. Now…they’ve changed the closure and it no longer explodes which is great. But it has definitely been disgorged and is crystal clear with more vivacious and downright spikey bubbles. Still has a rich orchard fruit, pear profile but with fresher, less leesy aromas. 

Didn’t quite pair so well with the food…but really it was just there so we could have some bubbles!

Etel Chenin Blanc, 2018

Etel Winery, a subsidiary of the Gillham Vineyard Hotel, sits in northwest Northern Cyprus in the Beşparmak Mountains overlooking the Mediterranean. Wine has been made on Cyprus since at least 2300 BC…as before current politics made things an issue. While Turkish-controlled Northern Cyprus doesn’t have nearly the wine culture or industry of its Hellenistic neighbors across the border. In fact, there are only two commercial wineries, Etel and Chateau St Hilarion, and one garagiste style winery, Exile Café. Nor does the Turkish side work with any native grapes.

In the case of Etel, the winery grows ten varieties, all French. Its vineyards include: Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Carignan, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Grenache. Etel does at least give a nod to its location through the labels on its various white, rosé, and red wines by featuring an ancient Cypriot coin superimposed with the relief of a local bird.

Even here, Turkish politics is weird. Despite its insistent claims on the land, Turkey treats Northern Cyprus very much like it would a(ny) foreign country. So not only are the wines produced here not available in Turkey, you would have to pay import taxes to receive them – if the shipping were allowed that is. I sent a copy of my book (to Exile Café as it happens) and had to fill out a customs declaration. It’s all very weird.

Made with 100% Chenin Blanc and just a little time spent in oak, the wine at least was less weird than the politics! I found shy floral, citrus blossom aromas accompanied by a waft of yellow fruits on the nose. The palate delivered equally muted flavors and while the wine had a silky texture (that made me wonder if there weren’t a little residual sugar), it felt flabby and had none of Chenin Blanc’s characteristic acidity. A decent wine if lacking in balance but gun to my head I wouldn’t ever guess this was Chenin. 

It went well enough with the food though which is one win. Still and all, very interesting to try my first Northern Cypriot wine. 

Wondering where else in the world French grapes are grown?

• A Cinsault-Heavy Blend from Lebanon – Château Musar’s Bekaa Valley Red Hochar Père et Fils 2018 – Craves a Garlic-Heavy Dish or Three by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
• A Great Burger on Homemade Pretzel Hamburger Buns paired with a Malbec from Argentina by A Day in the Life on the Farm
• Africa and France: A Cab Franc by Carmen Stevens and a Rich Pork Loin Dinner by Our Good Life
• Feeling French in Paso Robles – L’Aventure Côte à Côte 2019 and Modern Cassoulet by Grape Experiences
• Hooray for Alicante Bouschet by Wine Predator…Gwendolyn Alley
  
• Northern Cypriot Chenin Blanc and an Indonesian Feast by The Quirky Cork
• Two Wines from French Grapes Now Rooted in WA Soil by My Full Wine Glass