Out of Darkness Come the Brightest Wines
What’s that saying about nothing good happens after midnight? While often associated with crime/thriller stories (one assumes because only criminals are out and about after midnight); it’s become a pretty common warning. However, I think we all know that the sun’s position in the sky has little do with crime. But it DOES have a lot to do with the quality of grapes when harvested and the kind of wine ultimately produced.
Nyxteri (also spelled nykteri) comes from the Greek word for night: νύχτα. It is a style of wine on Santorini. Traditionally harvested at night (thus the name), although it is not a requirement and some producers do harvest during the day. Nyxteri wines must contain at least 75% Assyrtiko with the remains made up from Athiri and/or Aidani. Wine may ferment in steel or oak but must age a minimum of three months in oak to qualify for the name.
We know I generally avoid anything to do with oak and white wine, but a few of these have snuck their way into my glass! No regrets.
Hatzidakis Nyxteri, 2018
Hatzidakis chose to not blend its Nyxteri which is made with 100% over-ripe Assyrtiko grapes. After 12 hours of skin contact, the juice fermented with indigenous yeasts and the wine aged for 12 months in French oak.
The wine looked like summer straw complete with streaks of unripe green. While not shouty, the wine definitely displayed a verbosity with flamboyant citrus aromas (grapefruit and pomelo), tropical melon, and rich honeycomb and linden flowers. Added to this, streaks of Assyrtiko’s signature mineral and sea spray.
The linden hit my tongue first followed by waves of hazelnut, melon, and golden apple. Dry from start to finish with loads of tension and (of course) mineral. Also loads of alcohol (14%). I don’t know why I’m always surprised by what high alcohol wines Assyrtikos are, but I am!
Santo Wines Nykteri, 2017
If I recall correctly, Santo Wines made the first Nykteri I tried. E&M had this one on hand during one of my previous visits to Athens. Unlike Hatzidakis, Santo Wines did use a blend for this: 5% Assyrtiko, 10% Athiri, and 5% Aidani and aged it for the minimum three months in (French) oak.
The shorter amount of time in oak showed in the brighter lemon color and more delicate aroma profile. Pear and citrus dominated the fruit silhouette with white flowers and the expected mineral making an appearance along with a surprising sprinkle of nutmeg.
On the palate, high alcohol (again 14%) boosted by a refreshing and lemony acidity gave the wine a nice brightness to accompany the citrus and pear fruit and blossom flavors.