Porta Caeli Pacem Sauvignon Blanc 2016
Porta Caeli came about as the result of a wine-loving Turkish family’s quest to prove that Turkish wine can compete with established Old World wine.
The winery and spa hotel are located in the village of Ecebat where Thrace meets the Aegean. While the majority of Turkey experiences a hot and continental climate, this region is very different. The harmony of a maritime climate, surrounding forests, and breezes has attracted many winemakers including Porta Caeli, Suvla, Ergenekon, Doluca, Chateau Kalpak, and more.
With the notable exception of Suvla, most winemakers in the region, Porta Caeli included, work exclusively with international grape varieties. In the case of Porta Caeli, specifically Bordeaux varieties. They believe that their terroir and microclimate are not only appropriate for Bordeaux varieties but that they are capable of producing wine that can compete directly with the hallowed chateaux of Bordeaux. As such, they cultivate Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Sauvignon Blanc along with two other French varietals: Chardonnay and Viognier.
Given their goal it’s no surprise how much care they take both in the vineyard and the winery. In the vineyard they practice Good Agricultural Practices and GLOBALGAP procedures. French oak is liberally employed in the winery. Not only do the wines age for between 8-24 months in French barriques, but Porta Caeli also uses several large oak tanks for maceration.
With assistance from infamous consultant Michele Roland Porta Caeli launched its first vintage only a few years ago. This vintage, a 2013, marks the winery as one of the younger wineries in Turkey. And while it may be young it’s already making a big splash.
Porta Caeli makes wine under four labels: Ament (both a Bordeaux blend and a varietal Cabernet Franc). Pacem (both a varietal Sauvignon Blanc and a white blend), and Fellici (a Cabernet Sauvignon rose) are the winery’s premium wines. They also produce a second line called Porta Diverti. These wines, one red blend, one varietal Sauvignon Blanc, and one white blend, are quality wines but ones which have seen less oak and bottle ageing.
Porta Caeli Pacem Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Tasting Notes
The nose displays lots of lemony citrus with hints of grapefruit. Notes of saline and wet stone evoke the waters of the Aegean where it crashes against the Çanakkale peninsula. This is not the steely Sauvignon Blanc of Sancerre but the heavier, richer Sauvignon Blanc of a warmer climate. Still more citrus than tree or tropical fruit, but the deeper citrus of lemon peel and orange.
There are many choices of Sauvignon Blanc in Turkey so even domestically it’s not an easy market. Whether or not Porta Caeli can stand up to domestic competition, let alone Bordeaux, I’ll leave to you to decide on your own. What I will say is that they have made a very clean Sauvignon Blanc that is a good varietal example.