Shiluh and the Assyrian Wine Tradition
Taking its name from the Syriac word for “peace,” Shiluh is Turkey’s largest commercial Assyrian-style winery. Based in Midyat about 100 km from Mardin in the extreme southeast of Turkey, Shiluh (which also goes by Süryani Şarabı) carries on the winemaking tradition of Christian Assyrians. But in a modernized way.
Until recently, Assyrian wine remained largely a family by family project. People sourced grapes from home gardens and made traditional wines at home to share with friends and family. Then in 2008, wishing to share this part of their culture outside the community, members of three Assyrian families: Gabriel, Aktaş, and Aslan, created a commercial winery to produce such wine.
Shiluh sources grapes from its own vineyards as well as from local growers to create its wines. The winery uses only indigenous Turkish grapes: Boğazkere, Öküzgözü, Mazrona, and Kerküş. Some of the grapes come from vines that are more than 50 years old. Despite the popularity its gained both locally and across Turkey, the winery keeps production relatively small, less than 100,000 bottles annually.
Assyrian wine tradition
Assyrians, also known by the self-designations: Chaldean, Syriac, and Aramean, hail from parts of present-day northern Iraq, southeastern Turkey, northwestern Iran and, northeastern Syria. Amongst the early Christian converts (first to third centuries) the majority still belong to various eastern-rite Christian denominations, including: Chaldean and Syriac Catholic, Syriac Orthodox, Assyrian Church of the East, and more.
Only about 10,000 to 15,000 Assyrians now make Turkey home. They live mostly in Midyat-Mardin, an area of Turkey home to some of the oldest monasteries. As Christians, especially living in close proximity to monasteries, wine holds a special place in Assyrian culture. The traditional style of winemaking calls for grapes to dry under the sun before manual stomping in burlap sacks. Juice ferments in clay or other 
inert containers and never ages in oak.
On a recent visit to Midyat and Mardin, Istanbites and I were treated to Shiluh’s hospitality. After picking us up at the airport, they took us first to Mor Gabriel, the oldest surviving Syriac Orthodox monastery in the world. Then it was back to the winery for lunch and wine. Wine, incidentally, pressed with modern machinery, not feet!
Shiluh Kustan 2018 Tasting Notes
For its only white wine, Shiluh blends two grapes native to Mardin-Midyat: Kerküş and Mazrona. Little known outside the region, the grapes grow on old bush vines, many of which are at least 50 years old. Found in old vineyards and home gardens, Shiluh sources grapes from its own vineyards but also buys in as many as possible.
Fermented individually before blending, the Kustan presents a deep gold wine edging toward sunset orange due to a bit of skin contact during fermentation. Fruity and floral with hints of over ripe pear and banana, the nose is surprisingly faint given the intensity of color. On the palate the wine is soft and round with flavors that reflect the nose.
Shiluh Turabdin Tasting Notes
The Midyat-Mardin region collectively goes by ‘Turabdin’ from which this wine takes its name. A blend of 70% Boğazkere and 30% Öküzgözü, the Shiluh Turabdın is a really pretty purple-tinged ruby in the glass. Aromas of sweet spices and dusty earth join vanilla-kissed purple fruits, like blackberry and plum on the nose. Even if I didn’t know there was Boğazkere in the blend it would not be difficult to guess the way the tannins filled my mouth and held on. And on, and on.
Like the Kustan, the palate largely reflected aromas from the nose complimented by a medium plus body and medium acidity.
Shiluh Monastır Tasting Notes
The Monastır, its name a nod to the ancient monasteries in the region, is a 100% Boğazkere. Purple flowers, black fruits, and sweet spices lingered after some vigorous swirling. This one really wants a bit of time to open properly. Boğazkere often wants some breathing, particularly when it’s not been softened by any oak ageing.
Full-bodied with big tannins and flavors of black mulberry, black cherry, pepper, licorice, leather, and smooth chocolate on the finish, this was classic Boğazkere.
Shiluh Dara Tasting Notes
Like the other wines, the Dara’s name nods at the region’s history, in this case to ruins of an ancient city about 20 minutes outside of Mardin. More than its name pays homage to the region. The Dara blends together not only Boğazkere and Öküzgözü, but also mahlep. A spice used in a variety of Turkish foods, especially in this region, mahlep is the ground seed from (St. Lucie) cherries with flavors similar to bitter almonds and cherries.
When blended with Boğazkere and Öküzgözü to make the Dara, mahlep adds an overwhelming sense of Christmas to the wine. The nose practically gushed Christmas pudding aromas of brown sugar, dates and dried cherries, cinnamon, nutmeg, and almond. Even knowing that the wine contained no residual sugar, the dryness on the palate was disconcerting. Silky tannins carried flavors of cherries that were both tart and dried, rich baking spices, and molasses coated almonds. Not my personal favorite wine ever but it makes a great base for Glühwein!