Tavkveri: A Primer
Semi-recently I took a trip to Georgia (the Republic of, not the peach state). I haven’t been since before the pandemic hit and was happy for a chance to get back to the land of khatchapuri. This wasn’t just an eating trip though. I actually went to attend the Women in Wine Expo. When I heard the woman behind the organization is Turkish, I had to go! You can read more about Senay and her work here.
How did I get from there to a primer on Tavkveri? Well because naturally I stayed an extra day to hit up a few of my favorite wine bars, restaurants, and shops in Tbilisi. In two of those places, I found wines made with what just may be my new favorite Georgian red grape.
Tavkveri
First and foremost, how does one begin to say this grape? My conversations with shop and bar owners lead me to think that it’s somewhere along the lines of: tahv-kwer-ree. Ignore the first ‘v’ and turn the second into a ‘w’ and you’re close.
The grape’s name means “hammerhead,” for the flat top of the bunch which are big and compact with broad shoulders. The grapes themselves are round, somewhat large, and dark blue. Indigenous to Kartli, it’s also grown in Kakheti.
It appears to be a pretty flexible grapes, able to take a variety of winemaking styles including oak, qvevri, sparkling, rosé, fortified, and dessert wine. Regardless of the wine style, it usually always shows bright cherry and herbal flavors, backed up with darker, earthy flavors.
For more detailed information about this grape variety, check out the Association Wine Artisans website.
Okro’s Wines Sister’s Wine Tavkveri Pét-Nat, 2019
The first of the two Tavkveri wines that made it home with me was a Pét-Nat from the Okro’s Wines Sister’s Wine line. I got to visit Okro’s Wines years ago during a stay in Sighnaghi (the banner picture). Not only was it some of the best wine my friend and I had (available in the US!) but some of the best food too!
John Okruashvili founded Okro’s Wines in 2004, with the goal of making quality natural wine from eastern Georgian grape varieties like Rkatsiteli and Saperavi. Maybe it’s just because I don’t like Rkatsiteli or Saperavi…but his qvevri Mtsvane is my absolutely favorite. I look for a bottle every time I’m in Georgia.
I couldn’t find a ton of information about this specific wine online. But, I believe it’s less of a rosé and more of a sparkling red (or a rosé with a fair amount of skin time). Fermentation began in qvevri then finished in the bottle.
This was a wine both perplexing and enjoyable. Deeeep red in the glass with really very enthusiastic bubbles, the nose didn’t give many hints as to what waited in the glass. Cherry and cranberry fruit were evident but the grape’s herbal character came through quite strongly. All delivered on a creamy mousse and supported by lively acidity.
Wine Artisans Qvevri Tavkveri, 2018
Andro Barnovi left behind a life in politics to found and make wine under the name Wine Artisans in Gori. He’s become known both for the quality of his wines as well as for his experimental blends.
I went looking for a Tavkveri and found this one at Nino Meris Wine Selection in Tbilisi. The wine fermented (spontaneously of course) and sat in qvevri for eight months then spent 12 months settling in steel tank, then another three months in old French oak barrels.
A deep purply color with floral aromas joined by plum, blackberry, and cassis. Roughly tannic on the palate with lively acidity and a mere 11% alcohol. I found it to be very different from the nose. Some of the fruit came through but the dominant flavors were earthy forest floor and game.