Turkey vs Australia Taste Off: Shiraz Round One
Turkey and Australia both being what they are, this will merely be the first of many Turkey vs Australia Shiraz taste offs!
Shiraz (or Syrah, both names are used here) is massively popular in Turkey. Despite the preponderance of imitation Bordeaux blends, Shiraz is the most planted of any international grape. At least as of the last numbers I saw. Varietal Shiraz is the most common, but it also appears in blends. Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blends have gained a lot of popularity here. It sneaks into what would otherwise be a Bordeaux blend. And one producer, Kayra, is even doing a traditional Côte Rôtie-style Syrah-Viognier blend.
So, there’s a lot of internal competition for Syrah wines. But let’s see how one stacks up against the might of Australia.
In Turkey’s Corner: Etruscan Bağcılık
Vineyard planting for Etruscan Bağcılık began in 2010 in Eceabat on the Gallipoli Peninsula. If Eceabat sounds familiar (in a wine context), it’s because several other wineries including Suvla and Asmadan call it home. Etruscan’s vineyards here grow a familiar mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Sangiovese.
Etruscan Xhai Syrah, 2018
Normally, I wouldn’t buy a wine like this in Turkey. Or, since I don’t particularly like Shiraz, anywhere. However, back when I had a day job and before wine in Turkey became overwhelmingly ridiculously expensive, I was trying to buy at least one of two wines from all new wineries here as they emerged. Which is also how I ended up drinking Etruscan’s over-priced Sauvingon Blanc.
A single vineyard wine, after fermentation, the Etruscan Xhai spent 13 months in new French oak barrels. A lovely blend of savory-sweet aromas hit my nose in waves of tobacco and cigar box, dried flowers, fresh Mission figs, and brown spices. It took a turn on the palate with milk chocolate notes and jammy fruits. The sweetness of the chocolate and blackberry/mulberry notes overwhelmed the smokier and more subtle aromas. Eventually some cinnamon and sweet vanilla peeked out from under the heavy fruits leading to a warm, mouth-coating finish.
Full-bodied, with high alcohol at 14.8%. Not out of balance but rather bombastic and heavy-handed in style.
In Australia’s Corner: Penfolds
Maybe I’ve just spent too much time in Duty Free stores, but when I think Australian Shiraz, Penfolds is the name that comes to mind. Little surprise since, by 1907, it had become South Australia’s largest winery! But I get ahead of the story.
Founded by Dr Christopher and Mary Penfold in 1844, Penfolds, the couple planted vine cuttings that they’d carried with them as they emigrated to Australia. Certainly not something they could get away with now! Like everything now, except for racehorses, grapevines face a stiff quarantine protocol when imported to the island country. 
By happy coincidence I post this in March, not even a week after International Women’s Day, as it seems that it was in fact Mary Penfold who was the power behind the winery. According to the winery’s website:
As with the time, Christopher was seen at the forefront of the winery. However, behind every great man is a great woman. Mary Penfold is the unsung chief of Penfolds with many of experimentations, growth and winemaking philosophies originating from her. Everything she knew about wine, she taught herself – insisting on having the grapes blended to her own taste. A woman standing confidently at the helm of a thriving business in the 1800s was unheard of. She’d command from a white mare, watching over the vineyard with her treasured spyglass close at hand.
Still one of the most recognizable names in Australian wine, Penfolds has vineyards across the country including (but likely not limited to): Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, Magill Estate, Clare Valley, Coonawarra, Eden Valley, McLaren Vale, Henty, Tasmania, and Tumbarumba .
Penfolds St. Henri, 2017
Penfolds created its St. Henri as a counterpart to the Grange series. A blend of Shiraz from plots in McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, and Clare Valley, it does not rely on any new oak ageing. Nor even any small barrels. Rather, it ages in old, large vats for a year which imparts little to no oaky character.
The wine poured nearly black in color and aromas needed little encouragement to leap out of the glass! Rich and complex, each sip revealed a new layer beginning with black fruits and mulberry. Fruit gave way to tobacco, green herbs, and purple flowers sprinkled by black pepper before the richness of carob and brown sugar took over. Pure silk on the full-bodied palate with rounded acidity and 14.5% alcohol.
Conclusion
Australia definitely ‘won’ this round. The Penfolds St. Henri showed complexity and balance than did the Etruscan Xhia. Moreover, not only did the St. Henri show evolution even while in the glass, it has significantly greater aging potential. In fact, Penfolds’ website suggests peak drinking now through about 2040! The Etruscan…maybe 10 years.
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