Turkish Malbec? Yes It’s a Thing!
Turkish Malbec? What? That can’t be right, you’re thinking. It pleases me to say that it is correct! Turkey makes Malbec. In fact, Malbec is cultivated in at least three of the eight wine regions. Only a handful of producers are making varietal Malbec but it appears pleasingly frequently in a number of blends.
So how does Turkish Malbec stack up against Malbec giant Argentina or even hometown Cahors? Before we can dive into the wines themselves, let’s look at the regions where it grows; beginning with the most westerly region-Thrace.
Thrace
The Thrace (or Trakya in Turkish) growing region extends from Turkey’s borders with Bulgaria and Greece down to the border of the Gallipoli Peninsula. Varied climates, soil types, and geographical aspects allow for the cultivation of a large variety of grapes. While international grapes are more common there are some native varietals making a splash here as well. Home to the second largest concentration of wineries and the Trakya Bağ Rotası (Thracian Wine Route) Thrace is the closest wine region to Istanbul. Wine giants such as Chamlija and Doluca make their home here alongside smaller, craft producers Chateau Nuzun, Saranta, Gürbüz, Umurbey, Arcadia, Arda, and more. Other wineries keep vineyards if not production facilities in this region.
Thrace at a glance
Subregion: Northern: Kırklareli, Edirne; Middle: Tekirdağ; Southern: Şarköy, Mürefte
Climate: Varied, cold continental to Mediterranean
Soil: extremely varied including dense cracking clays, marl, quartz, limestone, granite, etc
Vineyard: bush, head-trained and trellis vineyards
Grape varieties: Local: Kolorko, Narince, Sidalan, Yapıncak, Kalecik Karası, Öküzgözü, Papazkarası
International: Albarino, Assyrtiko, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Semillon, Viognier, Caladoc, Cinsault, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Mavrud, Merlot, Montepulciano, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Syrah, TempranilloSuvla 2011 Reserve Syrah
Chamlija 2015 Malbec
Chamlija is one of Turkey’s greatest experimental wineries. That the winery cultivates Malbec is more par for the course than surprising. This winery is responsible for many of the more “unusual” international varieties in the list above. Chamlija’s vineyards, located in Kırklareli produce mineral-driven wines that, when tamed by a hint of oak, create round and balanced wines. Always expressive, his varietal wines range from charming to complex.
The wine rested for three months in French oak before being bottled both unfined and unfiltered. Medium-bodied and balanced with only 13% abv (the lowest alcohol of all the wines discussed here), Chamlija’s Malbec is both pretty and refined. The beautiful plum-purple color of the wine hints at the aromas therein. Plums, violets, sweet spices, mingle and are lifted but a hint of refreshing mint. On the palate, tannins the texture of rough silk carry flavors of jammy fruit, pepper, and licorice.
Mediterranean
While it covers a wide area, Turkey’s Mediterranean (Akdeniz) region is home to only two wineries; Hatay-based Antioche and Likya in Elmalı. This region is the gateway to the Turkish Riviera, the Turquoise coast, and home to many archaeological sites and museums.
Mediterranean at a glance
Subregion: Antalya, Elmalı
Climate: Mediterranean with hot and dry summers, mild and rainy winters.
Vineyards: cane pruned, single and double guyot
Grape varieties: Local: Acıkara, Barburi, Boğazkere, Kalecik Karası, Merzifon Karası, Narince, Papazkarası International: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc
Likya 2015 Malbec
Likya boasts several Malbec varietal wines in its line up. The Likya Kadyanda Malbec was the first Turkish Malbec I had to excite me. Thanks to that wine, I began hunting down the others.
The drama of this wine is apparent as soon as you pour it and see the deep, opaque purple-red color reminiscent of black mulberries. The nose here is everything. It displays aromas of black fruits (black raspberry, plum), coffee, vanilla, bay leaf, chocolate, and baking spices. Medium-bodied (13.5% abv) with round, succulent tannins, the palate is rich with ripe fruit, spice, and chocolate.
Aegean
The largest region in terms of production, the Aegean (Ege in Turkish) is also the most complicated. Turkey is the world’s sixth largest grape growing country, most of which are not vitis vinifera, but table grapes intended for fresh consumption, raisin, vinegar, and pekmez production, and the vast majority of those vineyards are here. Varied climates, soils, and geographical features mean that this region has the most subregions and unique growing areas. It also is home to two of Turkey’s official wine routes: the Urla Bağ Rotası and the Güney İzmir Bağ Yolu. Too many wineries to name have a home base in this region. Large-scale producers Sevilen, Suvla, and Pamukkale are joined by scores of smaller, quality wineries like Ayda Winery, Karnas, Gali, Ma’Adra, Bodrum Winery, Claros, Paşaeli…we could be here forever.
Aegean at a glance
Subregions: Aydın, Ayvalık, Bodrum, Bornova, Bozcaada, Çal, Çanakkale, Çesme, Denizli, Foça, Gallipoli, Izmir, Manisa, Muğla, Şirince, Urla
Climate: Summers hot and dry, winters mild and rainy.
Soil: Extremely varied including: silt, clay, schist, limestone, volcanic
Vineyards: cane and spur pruned trellis, goblet
Grape varieties: Local: Beyazkere, Boğazkere, Bornova Misketi, Çakal, Çal Karası, Çavuş, Foca Karası, Gök, Kalecik Karası, Karalahana, Kolorko, Kuntra, Merzifon Karası, Urla Karası, Öküzgözü, Patkara, Sidalan, Sultaniye, Vasilaki
International: Alicante, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Cattarato, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Corinot, Ekigaïa, Gewürztraminer, Grenache, Grillo, Malbec, Marsalan, Merlot, Montepulciano, Muscat, Nerello Cappuccio, Nerello Mascalese, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Primitivo, Rebo, Sauvignon Blanc, Sangiovese, Shiraz, Solaris, Tannat, Trebbiano, Viognier, Zinfandel
Yedi Bilgeler 2016 Solon Attica Malbec
Located a short 10 km from the ancient city Ephesus, Yedi Bilgeler uses Malbec not only in the its varietal Solon Attica but also its Bias Priene and Pythagoras blends. The latter being one of my favorite (international variety) red blends in Turkey.
Climbing the alcohol ladder slightly from Likya’s Malbec, Yedi Bilgeler’s clocks in at 13.8% abv. Still pretty low for Turkish red wine. Especially considering the warm growing conditions in the Aegean region. Despite its relative youth, fruit is not the predominant aspect in this particular Malbec. Aromas of tobacco and a dusting of bitter cocoa powder develop into cherry and sugar plum. An elegant, medium-bodied wine displaying structured tannins and pronounced, clearly Malbec flavors of sugar plum, cherry, and blueberry that melt into a cigar box-like tobacco.
That there is more than simply one example of a varietal Malbec coming from the Aegean is more number than chance since this is region includes the largest number of wineries in Turkey.
Kavaklidere 2015 Egeo Malbec
Next up is the Malbec from long-established Kavaklidere’s Egeo line. After eight months in French barriques this wine has a rich, somewhat showy nose of black mulberry and plum enriched with coffee, vanilla, cocoa, and sweet spices. We climb up the alcohol ladder just a little here to a more familiar 14% abv.
Corvus 2013 Malbec
Corvus, based on the Aegean island of Bozcaada (formerly Tenedus) is the highest alcohol of all these Malbecs. A whopping 14.7% abv, this wine possess the largest body and plummiest character of everything reviewed here.
Very ripe fruit coming from the island’s hot climate was treated to a long fermentation followed by eight months aging in Italian botti and limited filtration. Corvus’s Malbec has also the most textbook Malbec aroma profile. Sugar plum, sweet tobacco, baking spices, and cola aromas swim in the inky purple wine. Velvety tannins wrap around a strong acidic backbone. Very plummy flavors with plum, plum preserve, cola, and carob on the palate.