Warming Up Winter with Braised Oxtail and Bottega Ripasso Superiore #ItalianFWT
To kick of 2021, the #ItalianFWT group is embracing the cold weather. Host Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla has invited us all to pair any Italian wine we like with braised or stewed meat dishes. You can view her invitation here. And since Istanbul was briefly blanketed in a layer of fluffy snow, this really was perfect timing, for me, for this theme!
For this event, I tracked down some oxtail. It’s not super common in Istanbul but there’s a tiny butcher shop off the famous Istiklal Street that sometimes carries it. Happily, I got lucky and picked up two kilos for a braised oxtail stew. The original recipe had it served over whipped potatoes but instead, I thickened the gravy and served it over Casarecce noodles. The noodles may come from Sicily, but my wine came from the opposite end of the country. I chose a Ripasso Superiore from Veneto.
Ripasso della Valpolicella DOC
Like Valpolicella, Ripasso wines come mostly from Corvina grapes, Corvinone, Rondinella, and a handful of others sometimes play a supporting role in the wine. Actually, it’s not so much that Ripasso wines are like Valpolicella but that they are Valpolicella. A tarted up version thereof.
Ripasso has always fascinated me. Meaning “go over again” Ripasso is a mid step between Veneto’s Valpolicella and Amarone. After the dried grapes used to make the sweet Recioto and powerful Amarone are pressed for those wines, the vinacce, or pomace, of unpressed grapes are added to already fermented Valpolicella. The sugars in the pomace kickstart a second fermentation in the Valpolicella. The resulting wine has an increased alcohol level, a bigger body, and deeper flavors.
While the first commercial bottlings of ripasso style wine went on sale in the 80’s (from producer Massi), Ripasso della Valpolicella wouldn’t earn its own Doc until 2009.
Casa Bottega
The Bottega family has worked with grapes and wines since the 17th century. Originally tenant farmers, the family managed to get their own land in Treviso and kept right on growing grapes. Fast-forward a couple hundred years and Casa Bottega now has vineyards and wineries in Treviso, Verona, and Siena.
The company is GREENER-certified dedicated to sustainability and environmental and social responsibility. It farms organically, purifies waste water, uses recycled glass in its bottles, and more. Bottega also raises awareness and donates to issues such as breast cancer research and disaster relief.
The huge range of products includes not only wines from Valpolicella, the Veneto, Friuli, and Tuscany, but also Prosecco and sparkling wines from Lombardy, grappa, grappa, liqueurs, and other distillates.
Casa Bottega Ripasso della Valpolicella DOC Superiore, 2016
Bottega’s Ripasso blends the Valpolicella main player Corvina with lesser amounts of both Corvinone and Rondinella. The wine was oak aged and only released two years after vintage as per the DOC’s regulations.
Medium plus opaque ruby on the pour, the wine released layers of fruit and spice. Sour cherry dominated but eventually made way for strawberry, sweet spices, tar, and licorice. On the palate, vibrant acidity kept the fruit fresh from start to finish. Although while fresh, the strawberry definitely showed just an edge of jam. Subtle oak influenced sweet spice flavors, mostly cinnamon complimented but didn’t detract from the fruit. Tannins were smooth and subtle giving the wine a fresh, silky texture. Overall medium-bodied despite the 14% abv with a medium-short finish.
I’ve heard Ripasso called the ‘little brother’ to Amarone but I think it’s more of a ‘big brother’ to Valpolicella.
How’d it do with the pairing? Well, as a friend of mine says, the wine and the dish are casually dating but likely won’t be getting any more serious. It did go surprisingly well with the green beans though. The tang from the splash of lemon juice and capers really highlighted the fresh cherry flavors in the wine.
Join the conversation!
Whether you’ve written a post for the theme or not, join the #ItalianFWT conversation on Saturday, February 6 at 11 am EST by following the hashtag on Twitter. And don’t forget to check out what the rest of the group is eating and drinking!
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February 5, 2021
Wendy Klik
Braised Oxtails…oh my. What a lovely dish and wonderful pairing. I haven’t had the opportunity to try this wine. I’ll be on the lookout.
February 7, 2021
admin
I hope you find a Ripasso soon, Wendy! I find them to be very food friendly and drinkable.
February 5, 2021
Camilla M. Mann
I have never cooked oxtail. Can you believe it?! Well, I might be inspired to try it after reading this post. And I love the characterization of the wine pairing as a casual date. So funny…and oddly descriptive. I might have to use that image soon.
February 7, 2021
admin
I was shocked to learn how pricey oxtail is in the States and I hope you won’t let that stop you! Such a rich meat. And, ha, yes. I wish I could take credit for that description!
February 6, 2021
Martin Redmond
Thanks for the excellent explanation of Ripasso della Valpolicella, a wine I knew virtually nothing about. I would have thought it would be a better pairing with the oxtail though. Cheers Andrea!
February 7, 2021
admin
I was really surprised and disappointed that the pairing lacked more oomph. Probably I’d have been better off with an Amarone in the end for this as I think perhaps the oxtail was a bit too rich in the end for the Ripasso.
February 6, 2021
Nicole Ruiz Hudson
I always love your gorgeous spreads. YUM I am surprised though that the wine and the food didn’t work better together. (I see as I’m typing that Martin wrote the same thing) – I always feel like Amarone, and by extension Ripasso, are perfect for this type of dish. Goes to show you show you never can tell until you actually try them together.
On a total aside, I just finished reading a novel partly set in Istanbul right before I started reading your post, so I started off reading already in the right setting.
February 7, 2021
admin
Thanks, Nicole! The lack of pairing perfection was a surprise but I think the next time I cook with oxtail I’ll go full Amarone or something equally big and rich.
What were you reading?! Always on the lookout for a new book!
February 7, 2021
Lisa Denning
Sounds like a great pairing, Andrea. I’ve always loved Valpolicella Rippaso wine and this producer sounds like a great one. Thanks for sharing!
February 8, 2021
admin
Thanks, Lisa! It was a nice wine. I would like to try others from the producer as they seem to have an extensive range.
February 7, 2021
Lauren
I had a similar dish in Spain many years ago, served with an aged red Rioja. Wonder why the Ripasso didn’t get on so well with the oxtail? Too light-bodied? In any case, you ended up with a super wine and a delicious dish; I’m sure they made for a festive evening!
February 8, 2021
admin
I do really think the Ripasso was too light-bodied. Next time I make the dish I’ll have to see if I can find something in the Rioja family! Thanks for the tip, Lauren!
February 8, 2021
Linda Whipple, CSW
Super intrigued by your post, as I’ve never tasted oxtail or Ripasso! The stew sounds hearty and delicious, though, and your notes on the Ripasso has me imagining the aromas and taste.
February 8, 2021
admin
Funnily I’d never had oxtail before coming to Turkey. It’s not at all common here but I was hooked the first time I tried it!
February 10, 2021
Terri A Steffes
We adore oxtail but have never made it at home… we have a favorite restaurant that makes it a winter special and we usually wait for them… however in this time of Covid, no can do. So I think we are going to give it a try at home, thanks to you!
February 10, 2021
admin
I hope making it at home works out, Terri! It seems like such a daunting thing but really it couldn’t be easier!