Turkish Wine Bar Review: Tarihi Pano Şarap Evi
Not far from Solera is Tarihi Pano Şarap Evi (Pano), an old-school spot that takes you back in time, to when wine and multiculturalism were still in fashion. Established in the 1920s by Panayot Papadapulous, Pano has the feeling of an old-fashioned Greek taverna. The extensive food menu includes both Turkish and international favorites but according to Yüksel, the wine expert you’ll usually find behind the bar, the cheese plate and wine are the biggest sellers.
Papadapulous, from a Greek Orthodox family in Samatya, moved to Istanbul in the 19th century where he began secretly importing and selling wine from Bozcaada (then known its Greek name Tenedos). In 1898 he went legit and opened the Pano Şarap Evi. Members of the Papadapulou family ran the bar until the death of Emel Hanım, the last surviving member, died in 1987. With that the bar remained closed for 10 years until 1997 when Fevzi Büyükerol purchased it and restored it to its former glory.
At Pano, wines are chosen with an eye to grape variety. Turkish and international grapes varieties march alongside each other on the lengthy wine list. There are plenty of Chardonnays and Cabernets for the shy wine drinker; Emir, Narince, Öküzgözü and Boğazkere for those wanting to sample the most common Turkish grapes, and more unusual and challenging grapes like Kerküş and Acıkara for the more adventurous. Pano also continues its own winemaking tradition begun by Papadapulous and the menu offers several of the bar’s own wines.
According to Yüksel, wines are also chosen partially by price point. They want to make sure that customers can enjoy a range of wines by the glass (or bottle!) at prices that are not prohibitively expensive. Indeed, the highest priced (domestic) wine on the list is 250 TL, which is a small markup from retail prices.
The pace at Pano is slow in the afternoon and early evening but speeds up quickly with everyone from quiet couples to boisterous groups in the evening. While service is always excellent, the enthusiastic and wine curious staff are happy to stay and chat with you about their wines if you come early when it’s slower.
Pano offers around 50 wines by the glass, including several sweet and fortified options and wines they make themselves.
Tarihi Pano Şarap Evi
Hamalbaşı Cad. No. 12/B, Galatasaray, Beyoglu
+90 212 292 66 64
Hours: 11:00 – 02:00