Rediscovering the Wines of Uçmakdere
Nestled in the Şarköy district of Tekirdağ (southern Thrace) is a small village called Uçmakdere. Prior to the population exchange of the 1920s this village, like many in district, was heavy populated by Greeks. It was the Greeks who established vineyards and winemaking in Turkey. With their departure villages like Uçmakdere went into decline. Without them most of the agricultural businesses, including wine, failed and villages died.
Fast forward to 2012. Attracted to the history of winemaking in the region, the wine loving Bulutsuz and Gülbay families purchased a previously closed winery in Uçmakdere and modernize and revamp the facilities.
Revitalizing Uçmakdere
Firuze Winery does not boast any of its own vineyards. Consequently, they source grapes from local villagers and from vineyards around the country. Even here in Turkey we hear criticism of wineries that buy in grapes. However, at Firuze they see this as part of their mission. With the winery’s help and encouragement villagers are heading back to the fields to reinvigorate the vines. Firuze’s team works closely with the villagers on vineyard maintenance and caring for the grapes. In return they get quality grapes from old vines.
Işıl Bulutsuz, winemaker at Firuze (with assistance from consulting winemaker Saba Acikgoz), wants to help the village grow in other areas as well. In addition to educating villagers about vineyard management she wants to add village-made products to store in the winery, establish a restaurant at the winery, and start hosting tastings and other events to attract visitors to the village.
Seaside wineries
Firuze enjoys a beautiful and advantageous location that will help draw visitors. The old wineries of Şarköy sat on the steps of the Sea of Marmara. From that advantageous position boats could dock at winery doors and easily load large barrels of wine to transport to Istanbul and abroad. A number of surviving wineries, including Kutman, Melen, and Firuze, still occupy positions close to the water.
Currently Firuze wines are available only from the winery. Happily the drive from Istanbul is beautiful and largely free of traffic (once you clear the city limits of course!). Most importantly, if you were to buy the wines elsewhere you would miss the opportunity to sit with the charming Bulutsuz family members. Istanbites and I tasted our way through their first vintage (2013) with winemaker Işıl Bulutsuz and were treated to a few tank samples to hint at good things to come.
The Wines of Firuze
Firuze’s white wine is a Chardonnay-lead blend (70%) with the remaining 30% the native Narince. Very fruity on the nose with lots of banana and citrus accompanied by the distinct sweet and waxy aromas of honeycomb. Round and slightly oily in the mouth with racy acid and flavors that echo the nose, it’s a nice blend that has held up well over the last five years.
The only rosé currently in the winery is a pretty, pale rose color made with Karaoğlan which they source from Malatya. We tried the 2015 which was fruity and surprisingly spicy on the nose. Flavors were mostly simple and fruity. Surprising hints of animal in the finish and a peppery acid added some character.
The first in the red line up was a blend of native grapes Öküzgözü and Boğazkere. These two grapes are often used together and are natural blending partners. Firuze’s 2013 was a bit closed and reductive initially but soon yielded spicy and dark fruit aromas. Medium tannins and large dollop of acidity carry big fruit flavors complimented by cracked black peppercorn.
Next up was another Öküzgözü blend; this time a Syrah – Öküzgözü. The 2013 blend was about 55/45 in favor of the Syrah. Very aromatic with pine and eucalyptus initially then pepper and dried herbs. As it opened, jammy fruits and sweet spices became more prominent. Medium body with velvety tannins, spiced plums, and a bit of a raisined flavor made for a lush wine.
We then left Öküzgözü for another Turkish grape, Kalecik Karası. This wine, a Kalecik Karası- Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Again from Firuze’s 2013 collection, this 50/50 blend boasted a nose that was both rich but light. Bramble fruits, vanilla, and chocolate all carried over into the flavor palate.
Keeping with the Cabernet we next tried Işıl’s favorite wine, a 60/40 Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon. Plummy-everything from the intense fruits to the mouthfeel was similarly velvety and plush.
My favorite was the not yet released 2014 Syrah – Öküzgözü which we tasted from the tank. Aromatic with pine and green aromas over red berries in the nose. Round and smooth in the mouth with flavors of tobacco and pepper…lots and lots of black pepper. I’m looking forward to this one being bottled! It will be a pleasure to return to Uçmakdere to get it.