A Very Special Sparkling Red Karasakız from Paşaeli
I mean…from whom else??
In mid December, I got a call from Paşaeli asking if I were home because they were sending me a New Year’s gift (Turkey has rather appropriated Christmas and moved it to New Year to totally delete any Christian connotations). As it happened, I was home and was delighted that Paşaeli had so kindly thought of me.
After it arrived, I opened the box, saw the crown cap and thought, “oh cool, a pét-nat, I love their pét-nats”. Then I looked at a label I have never seen before and literally gasped. This was something new! Something different! And, as it turns out, something very rare!
Paşaeli, that amazing rescuer or rare grapes and pioneer or wine styles created another first for Turkey: the first sparkling red wine by way of a Karasakız pét-nat.
Karasakız
Karasakız is one of those super underappreciated grapes here. Not unknown, not exactly rare. Paşaeli makes several red wines with it, Suvla makes…six I think! And on Bozcaada, where it’s known as Kuntra, several people make wine with it. And yet, it flies totally under the radar. A real shame because the wines are anywhere from solid quality to elegant herbal wines that surprise and delight.
Paşaeli’s Karasakız comes from old bush wines in the Kaz Dağları in the Aegean. Normally, they make red wine with it. Notably the 6\N Karasakız – Merlot and the 6\N Karasakız. In 2021, having already conquered pét-nats, they decided to give this grape a go. After 11 days maceration, the wine started its fermentation in steel tanks and finished in bottles.
How many bottles? A true experiment, this vintage netted only 33 bottles. I am beyond thrilled and feel truly privileged to have received one.
Paşaeli Karasakız Pét-Nat, 2021
The wine poured RED, deep dark red, with just a touch a bubbly excitement and aromas of black cherries and cassis. Under the fruit herbal expressed themselves with elusive hints of hard/woody herbs, laurel, and violets. Lightly effervescent on the palate with flavors of balsamic, candied violet, and cooked plum. There was a biter note on the finish, but a not unpleasant bitterness. Almost medicinal which was surprising after the sweetness on the nose.
Medium-bodied with moderate alcohol (13.5%), low tannins and very nice acidity.
I tried really hard to think of what one might pair with this. The first of its kind and I wanted to prepare everything before opening it. Which resulted in some wild guesses including: savory sweet potato fries, five-spice chicken, and homemade (although not by me) focaccia. They were all pretty much a miss, unfortunately. I can only hope that Paşaeli plans to make more for the 2022 vintage so I can try again!
Please Help Turkey and Syria!
In light of the horrific earthquake that has decimated large areas of Turkey’s south east and northern Syria, please consider donating to one of the relief efforts if you are able:
Animal rights organization Haytap is helping animals affected by the earthquake, and displaced people who need a place to stay with their pets.
Donate to search and rescue efforts in Turkey via Ahbap, Akut and Turkish Red Crescent
Donate to civil society groups working on the ground to provide immediate relief and medium- to long-term recovery to survivors via UK-based Turkey Mozaik Foundation or US-based Turkish Philanthropy Funds.
To support rescue efforts in Syria, donate to White Helmet and SAMS.
Field Ready Türkiye (Sahaya Hazır İnovasyon Derneği) is a team of engineers working in Gaziantep, Turkey, and northwest Syria who make cheap, low-tech airbags for search and rescue from buildings which have collapsed. “If we move fast they can make more,” a good friend who previously worked with the team writes. “The workshops in Syria also have vast experience of fixing essential medical equipment, and making insulated shelters – both greatly needed right now”
Follow Jennifer Hattam on Twitter at The Turkish Life for continued updates on organizations accepting donations and needing local assistance.