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HomeSparkling WineA Vertical Tasting of Vinkara’s Yaşasın #WinePW

A Vertical Tasting of Vinkara’s Yaşasın #WinePW

 


Quick, what’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think about sparkling wine? I could take a few guesses. But I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that none of those things are: Turkey, Central Anatolia, or Kalecik Karası. Unless you happen to be a fan of my blog. In which case, hi mom! Whether or not these are things that pop into your mind when you think about sparkling wine, all three things are related to it. And for this month’s #WinePW Bubbles From Around the World conversation, they’re what I’m talking about.

If anyone thought of those three things, it was Ardıç Gürsel, founder of Vinkara Winery. When she started learning to love wine, her number one question was: Where are all the Turkish grapes? So, in 2003, she established Vinkara Winery outside of Turkey’s capitol, Ankara. Her first goal: focus on making quality wines with native grapes. Done. Vinkara makes wine with several Turkish grapes including Boğazkere, Hasandede, Narince, Öküzgözü, and of course, the regional grape Kalecik Karası. 

That accomplished, Gürsel moved onto goal number two: make Turkey’s first traditional method wine from a native grape. Thus was born Yaşasın. Made in both a blanc de noir and rosé style, these are traditional method sparkling wines made with 100% Kalecik Karası. I’ve been collecting different vintages of this for ages now and was finally able to put together a vertical tasting with a group of friends. 

Vinkara Yaşasın Blanc de Noir

The majority of the blanc de noir Yaşasın wines rest an average 24 to 30 months on the less. But there are a few exceptions. They are all finished brut.

2014: 10.2 g/l residual sugar, 13% abv, ~30 mo sur lie
Deep gold in the glass with honey, quince, melon, grilled pineapple, and walnut skins on the nose. Creamy, mouth-filling mousse. Honeyed tropical fruit flavors, daisies, and a musky floral back breath. Wow.

2015: 10.6 g/l RS, 13% abv, ~24-30 mo sur lie
Pale lemon shot through with green highlights. Fresh pineapple, melon, pomelo, and a whiff of honeysuckle. Crisp & lively. The longer it lived in the glass the more notes of honey joined the fruit but the difference between the 14 & 15 was astounding.

2016: 10 g/l RS, 12% abv, 46 mo sur lie
Platinum lemon. Lemon blossoms and jasmine over a tropical core with raw hazelnut and saline detail. Lively and clean, notes of preserved lemon, pear, and honey joined the flavors carried through from the nose.

2017: 11.1 g/l RS, 13% abv, ~24-30 mo sur lie
Pale straw in the glass. Aroma and flavors very different from the previous vintages with a more citrus-forward profile. Green apple, pear, citrus zest, and white blossoms. Crisp, but I could feel the weight from the residual sugar on the back palate. Apple, kumquat, pomelo, and stone.

2018: 9.8 g/l RS, 12% abv, ~24-30 mo sur lie
Pale lemon on the pour with aromas of honeysuckle buds, lemongrass, kumquat, and loquat. Fresh with citrus acidity, almond blossom, pomegranate leaf, and a pleasant pith bitterness highlighting the kumquat and loquat fruit.

Vinkara Yaşasın Rosé

Like the blanc de noir, the rosé Yaşasıns are all 100% Kalecik Karası, traditional method, and brut. They average 24 months on the lees. The Yaşasın rosés start life as pale rosé and get a small addition if still rosé wine with the dosage.

I was only able to find three vintages of the rosé: 2045, 2016, and 2018. The 2018 incidentally, is the most recent vintage available for either style.

2015: 10 g/l Residual Sugar, 13% abv
Pale copper with lots of brown sugar, caramel, and bananas foster aromas. Very lively and mouthwatering! Cranberries and sour cherry come through on the palate.

2016: 10 g/l RS, 11.5% abv
Again pale copper and touches of brown sugar but the nose here showed more red fruit. Sweet cherries and citrus. Lively, charming with crunchy red fruits and red lemon on the palate.

2018: 10.8 g/l RS, 12% abv
Comparatively much pinker in the glass though still pale. This one practically shouted red fruits with wild strawberry and under-ripe raspberry. The overwhelming favorite.

There’s not much available, largely because a couple of my friends have bought it all already! But there are a few shops in the US that do or have carried this wine if you want to try it!

MacArthur Beverages

Toast Wines by Taste

Potomac Wines

And if you’re wondering about the name, Yaşasın … it essentially means “yay! hurrah!” in Turkish!

I sort of did a food pairing…

Instead of going for anything specific, I put together a little buffet of foods that should more or less pair well with traditional method sparkling wines. Several cheeseboards of course. We had a variety of cheeses but the one that was the real star was a patmol amber from local producer Tangala Paynirleri.

Deviled eggs, potato chips, and a leek-bacon-camembert mac & cheese all did very well with the wines. The surprise of the night though was how well candied dried cherry tomatoes paired! We get these delightful things at the dried foods and spice shops here. They taste like candy. You’d never know they were tomatoes.

Pop Those Corks!

Don’t forget to read about the sparkling wines the other members of the Wine Pairing Weekend crowd have cracked open for this!

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13 Comments

  • January 8, 2022
    MARTIN D REDMOND

    It took some conviction and vision for Ardıç Gürsel to focus on native varieties…plus make bubbles on top of that. They sound lovely. I’m digging that they’re aged for 24-36 months as well!

    Oh,,and please add me to list of fans of your blog. Cheers to Mom!

    • January 8, 2022
      admin

      Thank you, Martin! I also really appreciate that Ardıç keeps the price down. Don’t get me wrong, prices are getting insane here with inflation, but she could be taking advantage of that to make this wine really expensive and has not.

  • January 8, 2022
    Wendy Klik

    Your mom isn’t alone as a fan to your blog. I always love reading your posts. I need to find some of those candied tomatoes.

    • January 8, 2022
      admin

      Thank you, Wendy! I wonder if you could maybe find some around Dearborn? Or send me your address and I’ll ship some to you!

  • January 8, 2022
    Terri Steffes

    A completely new idea for me! Those tomatoes speak to me. As do the Turkish bubbles.

    • January 9, 2022
      admin

      The tomatoes are awesome, Terri! My cheeseboards are never without them.

  • January 10, 2022
    Linda Whipple, CSW

    Love this vertical tasting and your details tasting notes. I’m also impressed you held onto these various vintages for so long. What discipline!

    • January 10, 2022
      admin

      Thanks, Linda! I’d like to take the compliment for discipline but really it was partially accidental! About two years ago I realized that I’d accidentally created a small vertical cellar of the blanc de noirs. Then I got this idea and started tracking down any older vintages of those and all the roses I could find.

  • January 11, 2022
    Nicole Ruiz Hudson

    Can I please come join you?! This all seems so delightful. I’m so interested in the wines (and who doesn’t love a vertical) and the cheese plate looks GORGEOUS.

    • January 11, 2022
      admin

      You would always be welcome, Nicole! Until you can get here though, there are some limited amount of these wines available in the US! I think mostly the 2015 is there.

  • January 11, 2022
    robincgc

    What an amazing vertical tasting this sounds like! And a truly joyful gathering. Your cheese board is STUNNING!

    • January 11, 2022
      admin

      Thank you, Robin! I was taught to build boards by a friend. She has two rules:
      1) there should be random pops of color
      2) there should be so much on the board that you cannot in the end see the board!

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