Get to Know the Grape: Emir
Emir, the lord of grapes and grape of lords! One of Turkey’s premier white grape varieties, Emir is thought to have earned its name (which means “prince” or “lord”) by being a favorite at the table of princes and lords during the Ottoman Empire. Or perhaps the name is meant to show how finicky and difficult the grape is to grow!
Native to the Mid-Southern, Central Anatolia region, Emir (eh-meer) shares its home with Turkey’s famous Cappadocia. While the grape does not exactly take advantage of the hot air balloon rides; being at home in this region means it’s not afraid of heights! This region has a generally high altitude of over 1,000 meters. Nor does Emir fear the cold which is great in this cold continental area where cold, autumn rains and deep winter snows make up the majority of precipitation. Emir grapes prefer soils largely composed of sand, sandstone, and decomposed volcanic tuff; making this otherwise infertile region a perfect home. Grapes are slightly oval, green-yellow, middle sized, grow in middle sized conical clusters, and ripen mid-season.
Unsurprisingly given its growing environment, Emir grapes never develop a high level of sugar. Which translates into wines that are always dry with high levels of acidity. Emir has no affinity for oak and therefore (usually) ages in stainless steel. However, some malolactic conversion or sur lie ageing is not unheard of.
The best examples are pale straw yellow wines famous for the crisp apple and minerals in the nose. On the palate this crisp and lively wine carries the flavors of apples, pineapple, kiwi, lemons, white roses, and mineral; so much so that it can sometimes be described as tasting ‘salty’.
Food pairing
With its crisp and lively character, Emir pairs very well with oily and fatty foods such as many of Turkey’s traditional mezes like stuffed grape leaves and anchovies. It loves prosciutto and ham as well as pork and chicken. Of course fish and seafood are great pairings and the wine does remarkably well with sushi and ceviche. The light-bodied wine pairs well with salads, cheeses like feta, Manchego, harder goat cheeses, and cream cheese. Interestingly it shows a liking for Thai flavors as well!
Try Emir with fruits, vegetables, and nuts such as lemon, lime, grapefruit, fennel, celeriac, kohlrabi, purslane, green bell pepper, endive, zucchini, asparagus pine nuts, and almonds. Also, using the following herbs and spices will serve you well: lemongrass, lemon balm, kaffir lime leaves, chive, tarragon, cilantro, white pepper, mustard, capers, and sweet-sour flavors.
Producers to check out
A few wineries have tried growing Emir outside its continental volcanic home (such as Prodom). However, Emir does not adapt well to other terroirs. This, perhaps, is the reason few Emir wines are made. Very few wineries make their home where Emir is. The only other option (which some do) is to buy grapes from other growers and truck them across the country. Based in Cappadocia itself are Turasan and Kocabağ wineries, both making excellent Emir wines. Based all the way across the country, Melen makes two wines from Emir it buys in as do Bozcaada-based Corvus and Aegean/Denizli-based Aykut Özkan. Also based in Denizli, Prodom makes an Emir but from grapes it grows in its Denizli vineyards. Kavaklidere remains unique in that it produces the only sparkling wine in Turkey made from Emir (via the tank method).
If you like Emir (or think you might!) other wines to try may include:
- Turkey: Vasilaki, Fesleğen
- France: Sauvignon Blanc (Sancerre), Chardonnay (Chablis)
- Spain: Albariño, Verdejo, Txakoli
- Italy: Grillo, Friulano, Soave, Gavi, Verdicchio (di Matelica), Vernaccia, Grechetto, Pecorino
- Austria: Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling
- Greece: Assyrtiko, Malagouzia
- Germany: Riesling (dry Qualitätswein or Prädikat Kabinett)
- Hungary: Furmint (dry), Kéknyelű, Olaszrizling
- Portugal: Vinho Verde whites, Alvarinho
- New World: Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand, Chile)