Hungarian Wines Tour Day 1: Getting to Know Mátra
After lunch at the Paris Passage, we headed east of Budapest to the Mátra region. With vineyards located on the lower slopes of the Mátra mountain range close to the border with Slovakia, this is Hungary’s second largest PDO. Just west of Eger, the soils here consist largely of volcanic soils, sand, and loess which contribute to the region’s signature aromatic whites and structured red wines.
Map courtesy of Hungarianwines.eu
White grape varieties here include Irsai Olivér, Rizlingszilváni, Olaszrizling, Zenit, Leányka, Hárslevelű, Sauvignon Blanc, Szürkebarát (Pinot Gris), Chardonnay, and Tramini. For reds, Kékfrankos dominates but Turán, Zweigelt, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot.
Getting to Know Mátra
We arrived to Nyilas Pincészet which hosted a walk around tasting with some 20 Mátra producers including: Centurio, Hoop, Dubicz, Losonci Bálint, Ludányi Pince, Bárdos, Gobri, Kerekes, Hoop Wines, Palya…and more! The tasting was organized by the Mátra Wine Region organization-one of the writing contest’s sponsors.
There were so many wines (more wines and wineries than tasters in fact!) that I couldn’t remember my notes on all of them. So, just a little review of the region.
Dubicz Borászat is a 115 year old winery that sits on 100 hectares. The winery, which focuses on white wines, makes three series of wines: Mátra Wines (entry), 1014 Wines, and Premium Wines. We tried the Irsai Olivér from the winery’s 1014 line (referring to the highest point in Hungary). Irsai Olivér (a cross between Pozsonyi and Pearl of Csaba) has a distinctive Muscat character. What a great reminder that I like this grape!! Dangerously quaffable with crunchy Santa Maria pears, flowers, and a touch of mint on the nose. Juicy peaches and flowers on the palate.
Family winery, Ludányi Pince works with a variety of white and black grapes, including Olaszrizling, Pinot Gris, Sárgamuskotály, Zenit, Merlot, Kékfrankos, and Cabernet Franc on seven hectares. I really enjoyed the Zenit. Finished semi-sweet with 7 g/L residual sugar it was well-balanced with lots of citrussy flavors, green almond, and flowers. The rosé, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Kékfrankos was refreshing and fruity with cherry-berry flavors.
Csernyik Pince consists of five hectares run by fifth-generation winemaker István Csernyik. With them I fell in love with a new-to-me grape: Turán. Inky purple in the glass with notes of smashed blueberries, blackberries, and rose petals. The palate ushers in brown spices, damson plum, and forest with structured tannins and a full, juicy body.
Centurio Birtokbor is a small winery with three hectares. They work their vineyards ‘Diós’ and ‘Fáy-Domb’ by hand and, while they grow a variety of grapes, a lot of their focus rests on the regional red, Kékfrankos. We tried two wines from Centurio. The estate white blends together five grapes: Zénit, Szürkebarát, Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, and a touch of Sárgamuskotály. Grapes are harvested at 10 different times over the course of a two-month period. The result, a crisp and mineral-driven wine that showcased the inherit fruitiness and aromatics of the five grapes while retaining a restrained elegance. We also tried the winery’s Fáy-Domb Cabernet Franc which was spontaneously fermented and aged for 16 months. Bright acidity accompanied rich tannins with flavors of red berries, brown spice, and fire-roasted green pepper.
Nyilas Pincészet
After the walk-around tasting concluded, our hosts Nyilas Pincészet gave us a tour of their family winery. Located in Gyöngyössolymoson (which I’m not even going to try to pronounce!), the winery has 230 hectares. The family, now with the third generation beginning to make contributions to the business, cultivates mostly white grapes (70% white, 30% black) including: Szürkebarát, Olaszrizling, Leányka, Muscat Ottonel, Irsai Olivér, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. For black grapes, the regionally popular Kékfrankos takes the lead in the vineyard with both Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon as well as a bit of Pinot Noir.
It may be family-run but it is by no means a boutique winery. Nyilas Pincészet produces some 15 thousand hectoliters annually, much of which is sold unbottled to the EU. They make of course a lot of white wines but also rosés and reds in addition to experiments like the winery’s new CO2-infused sparkling wine.
Of course we tried several of their wines during the walk around tasting including the Irsai Olivér and a Kékfrankos rosé. The Irsai Olivér showed a pale greenish-yellow color in the glass with aromas of fragrant lychee, orchard blossoms, and a Muscat-like grapeyness. Lively acidity on the palace and a tart citrussyness balanced the rich and exotic fruit cocktail flavors. Very charming wine. The rosé blended Kékfrankos and Pinot Noir for a fresh and fruity wine perfect for summer sipping.
Dominium Pincészet
After dinner at Nyilas Pincészet, half our troop retired to Dominium Pincészet and the winery’s hotel. Dominium, unlike Nyilas, is a boutique winery. Our host here was Dániel Orbán, one of the winery founders. He found inspiration in his father’s pursuit of viticulture and enology studies and himself became interested in wine. Now, together with his family, he runs the winery and attached hotel. The winery grows Sárgamuskotály, Furmint, Chardonnay, and Riesling for its whites along with Syrah, Tempranillo, Feketeleányka, Turán, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.
Dominium’s first commercial vintage (2014) was a Syrah and it was also a Syrah that Dániel brought to the walk-around tasting. Black fruits initially dominate the nose but then mellow to reveal spicy black peppercorn, old leather, and smoke. Silky on the palate with moderate alcohol.
After waking up the next morning, going through probably the winery’s entire supply of coffee pods, Dániel gave us a quick tour of his winery and cellar. Then we met up with the rest of our group and headed on to our next destination: Somló.