Introducing Akberg Büyük Bağ
Akberg Büyük Bağ I learned about last autumn at the Gustobar Sommelier Selection and was then happy to see them back in the spring at CMC (Istanbul’s two big wine events). We know how much I love a new winery so I was excited at both events to try their wines. Even after I learned where the winery is based.
Akberg winery has its base in Şirince, Izmir. Something that makes most of us in Turkey instinctually wince. Why you might ask? Should you come to Turkey and do a tour of Ephesus, the famous Greco-Roman ruins south of Izmir along the Aegean, your tour inevitably includes a trip to Şirince. The village, located in the mountains above Ephesus, looks charming (and very Greek but don’t tell anyone I said that). It is infamous for it’s production of “fruit” wine. You might try some peach, raspberry, black mulberry, cherry, or strawberry wine. If you feel brave, too hot to care, or unconcerned about the damage to your palate, you might also try the pomegranate, melon, kiwi, or only the Lord knows what other flavors are on offer now. 
Two or three competing companies fill wine shop after shop, each one claiming that only ITS wines are made naturally with fruit. Last I checked, grapes are indeed a fruit so to and extent all their claims are correct. They merely neglect to specify that grapes are the fruit in the wine and the strawberry, kiwi, melon, etc are all chemical flavors. I’m not knocking fruit wine. I grew up in Michigan. We make a lot of fruit wine. Some of it is even good (although much is best consumed on the porch, in the dead of summer, mixed with seltzer). But Şirince fruit wine? It’s barely either one of those words.
For a long time, Akberg has been one of these fruit wine wineries. However, as of the 2020 vintage, the winery branched out into real wine produced under the name Büyük Bağ. I haven’t spoken to them to confirm this, but I like to think that this Büyük Bağ label, which means “big vineyard” is a reflection of the fact that they source grapes from all over the country. Narince from its home in Tokat, Papazkarası from Thrace, Çalkarası from Çal, and so on. So, one point in their favor for using proper fruit! Another, even bigger point in their favor: Gülçin Akçay.
Gülçin is one of the country’s most talented winemakers and viticulturists, male or female. She cut her teeth in the vineyards of some of the country’s famous vineyards and wineries and has been the head winemaker at the high-quality winery Saranta since its inception. If Gülçin is making the wine, I want to drink it.
After all that, how is the wine? Let’s find out!
Akberg Büyük Bağ Narince, 2020
I first tried this wine in November at Sommeliers Selection where it was such a divisive wine! The people with whom I spoke – wine makers, retailers, and wine lovers alike – appeared split down the middle of hating or loving it.
As I mentioned above, Akberg sources the fruit for its wine from around the country with its Narince hailing from that grape’s home in the Black Sea district, Tokat. Pale gold on the pour, it was certainly the most aromatic Narince I’ve ever experienced.
Perfumed bergamot peel, orange blossom, melon, and guava framed by an oiliness and lively acidity. White flowers along with tropical fruit lingered on a citrus finish.
Perhaps the very aromatic nature of the wine was what turned off those who did not like it. Narince does not usually have such a bombastic character.
Akberg Büyük Bağ Çalkarası Rosé, 2020
The Çalkarası for the Büyük Bağ rosé comes from the Bozkurt in the Denizli district of the Aegean.
An intense, ballerina pink in the glass with aromas of crushed red fruits. Tart cranberry, strawberry, and unripe raspberry with a bright citrus streak. Round palate with delicate flavors of berry and pink lemonade.
Not going to lie, this was not my rosé. I liked the label more than the wine.
Akberg Büyük Bağ Öküzgözü, 2020
The Öküzgözü grapes came from Elazığ in Eastern Anatolia where this grape is most at home.
Medium plus purple ruby in the glass with fruit-forward nose. Blue plum, mulberry, and blackberry with notes of forest spice. Silky palate with friendly acidity and flavors of juicy raspberry and spice. A disappointingly short wine, but a very nice mouthful while you can taste it.
And I thought I had notes about the Papazkarası but apparently not! I included it in a tasting but apparently forgot to make my own notes. So more on that, and Akberg’s other wines, in the future!