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What Do You Know About Roter Veltliner?

 

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Many of us know Grüner Veltliner, or “green Veltliner” Austria’s premier white grape; but what do we know about its “red” counterpart, Roter Veltliner?

I say “counterpart” but that is rather misleading. Despite the name similarity, the grapes themselves have no relation. Moreover, Roter Veltliner itself is a misleading name because it’s not at all red. It’s a white grape.

Roter Veltliner

Unlike my beloved Turkey, Austria is one of those countries that actually has winemaking regulations. Austrian quality wine – by which I mean Qualitätswein – has rules. It doesn’t just mean wine that is good, it means wine produced under a designated origin; like Italy’s DOC(G), Spain’s DOC(a), or France’s AOC. One of the rules of Qualitätswein, is that wineries can use only specified grapes. Roter Veltliner happens to be one of those grapes (one of 22 white grapes to be exact). It grows mostly in Niederösterreich (especially in Wagram).

As I mentioned, despite the name similarity, Roter Veltliner is not closely related to Grüner Veltliner (nor is it easier to pronounce correctly). It is however related to other important Austrian grapes. Rotgipfler and Neuburger, for example, descend from Roter Veltliner.

While enjoyable to drink, it does not sound like a fun grape to grow. The grapes are small and grow in tight, compact bunches which makes them susceptible to both botrytis and oidium. Despite this, it is a highly productive grape. And while “red” may be an overstatement, they do gain a pinkish-red cast as they ripen (think Gewūrztraminer-like color).

Why don’t we see more of this grape? Likely because where it grows Niederösterreich, most vintners prefer to give vineyard space over to the more popular grapes like Grüner Veltliner or Riesling.

Leth Roter Veltliner Klassik, 2019

Located in the heart of Wagram, Weingut Leth makes it’s fair share of those two more popular grapes. But they also make Roter Veltliner (obviously or this post would be going nowhere fast). A family winery, they’ve been making wine for three generations now.

Their Roter Veltliner grows in loess soils between 200-300 meters. Certified sustainable since 2021, the family has not used herbicides for 25 years or insecticides for the last 10 years. After hand harvesting only healthy grapes (ie getting rid of any with botrytis) bunches are crushed immediately upon arrival at the winery with a pneumatic press.

After settling for about 12 hours, the family siphons off only the clear juice which then ferments with both native and cultivated yeasts in stainless steel tanks. After two months on the less, they rack the wine and bottle in mid winter (after the harvest).

Warm lemon in the glass with rich fruit and floral aromas. Friesia and rose petals decorated luscious loquat with notes of spice. That palate paired those aromas with ripe pears and a streak of bright acidity backed with a touch of spritz.