Orange Is Here to Stay: Tasheli Göküzüm Orange
Amber wine has quietly existed in Turkey for a number of years with previously off the radar, small producers like Gelveri. Then, a few well-placed and larger name wineries like Chamlija, Paşaeli, and Kastro Tireli released skin contact wines. In many ways, the amber boom here resembles the rosé explosion. Sure, there’s always been rosé. But then a handful of years ago everyone started making it (whether or not they personally like it) because that was the selling trend.
And so it seems, amber follows in the wake of pink.
Despite the work from Mediterranean wineries like Tasheli and Selefkia, Göküzüm still flies largely un-talked about. A pity, in my opinion, as we could really use a few more white grapes in the stable here. Also, it results in some pretty pleasant wines that people are missing out on!
Grown in the Taurus mountains where high elevation helps mitigate the heat of the Mediterranean region, Tashaeli’s Göküzüm vines are over 70s years. Gök means ‘sky’. This grape got its name from the local method of hanging grapes in the rafters of homes to raisin without sun exposure. Tasheli uses this in a few different wines including a white blended with Aküzüm and a rosé blended with Kalecik Karası (both of which are absolutely delightful).
Tasheli Göküzüm Orange, 2021
I’m unfortunately, rather late in getting to this with the 2022’s practically on the shelf already!
The 2021 vintage spent 15 days on the skins to develop a deep, burning bush orange color. Quite a lovely spiced nose prompted me to pair it with some Moroccan leftovers. Bright citrus aromas balanced the richness of caramelized orange slices, bruised apple peel, fresh summer hay, and brown spices.
Really very tannic on the palate. This is another one of those wines that proves that not only red wines need decanting! At first, any flavors to be found seemed to be fighting a losing battle with the tannins. However, after some air relaxed the wine, lovely flavors, quite faithful to the nose, presented themselves.
Another great thing about this? Only 12.5% abv.
It paired quite well with a Moroccan dried fruits and nuts couscous, ras el hanout rubbed chicken breast, and gingery roasted carrots!
This was not entirely my jam. But I really think it was more successful than the previous vintage which really has me looking forward to trying the 2022.
Tasheli provided this as a media sample, but all opinions my own.
Please Help Turkey and Syria!
Turkey and Syria are still in desperate need of help after the horrific earthquakes that have decimated large areas of Turkey’s south east and northern Syria, please consider donating to one of the relief efforts if you are able:
Animal rights organization Haytap is helping animals affected by the earthquake, and displaced people who need a place to stay with their pets. Other animal-focused groups such as Dört Ayaklı Şehir (Four-Legged City) and Work Animals Rescue Foundation, are also helping farm animals, street animals, and pets.
Donate to civil society groups working on the ground to provide immediate relief and medium- to long-term recovery to survivors via UK-based Turkey Mozaik Foundation or US-based Turkish Philanthropy Funds.
World Central Kitchen provides funds and food to those still living in tents in the affected areas.
To support rescue efforts in Syria, donate to White Helmet and SAMS.
Field Ready Türkiye (Sahaya Hazır İnovasyon Derneği) is a team of engineers working in Gaziantep, Turkey, and northwest Syria who make cheap, low-tech airbags for search and rescue from buildings which have collapsed. “If we move fast they can make more,” a good friend who previously worked with the team writes. “The workshops in Syria also have vast experience of fixing essential medical equipment, and making insulated shelters – both greatly needed right now”