Overcoming Challenges at Garova Vineyards
Nestled in a bowl-like cradle in mountainous Bodrum and nearly lost in the riotous greenery of the surrounding agriculture grow vines of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Shiraz, and Zinfandel. This is Garova Vineyards.
Wineries in Turkey have plenty of obstacles to overcome. Much of them, like the high alcohol and “luxury goods” taxes and ban on advertising come from the industry’s biggest impediment, the current government. Pair that with a failing economy and general lack of wine culture and you get an industry riddled with stumbling blocks. With this many issues facing a new winemaker, who would enter 
this life with road blocks of his own? Garova Vineyards’ founder Mehmet Vuran, that’s who.
Facing Challenges Head On
Vuran worked in Bodrum’s Department of Agriculture, until a traffic accident left him in a wheelchair. He returned to the family farm, which grew table grapes, and while there decided to give hobby winemaking a go. As hobby became passion he learned, through his own vineyard and through those of friends, what worked well in his corner of Bodrum and what didn’t. After much experimentation, he settled on Öküzgözü, Zinfandel, Petit Verdot, Shiraz, and Cabernet Franc.
Despite being in a wheelchair, Vuran manages his 2.3 hectares of vines and turns out between 10,000 and 15,000 bottles a year. Although he needs assistance getting in and out of the cellar, which is accessed via a steep slope he has difficulty ascending on his own. And as if making wine in Turkey isn’t already difficult enough, in 2016 he converted to spontaneous fermentation for all the grapes from his vineyards; trusting that the care he gives the grapes on the vine is skillful enough to pull it off.
In my humble opinion, he pulls it off. Focusing on red grapes as he does, Vuran makes one rosé and a series of red wines. Eschewing also the use of oak, his wines are young and fresh. The perfect reds to drink in Bodrum’s balmy, seaside towns (or anywhere else!).
Garova Vineyards Öküzgözü Zinfandel 2017 Tasting Notes
The intense, inky purple color hinted at both its youth and high acidity. Initially a little closed, it wanted a fair amount of breathing time. But after left alone to open, it revealed lots of fruit aromas. Black mulberry, plum jam, and crunchy currants with an animal-esque undertone.
On the palate a rough, woody tannin covered a surprisingly light body for a 14% abv wine. Tart fruits dominated the flavor profile, complimented by green bell pepper flavors. Lots of sediment here spoke to the lack of filtering.
Garova Vineyards Öküzgözü Shiraz 2017 Tasting Notes
The dense purple-ruby color was a little cloudy, hinting at the lack of filtering Vuran does (or doesn’t so I suppose I more apt!). Rich purple and black fruits burst from the glass; lots of plum and mulberry. There’s an animal aroma that seems common (so far) with Vuran’s wines which may have to do with the spontaneous fermentation? Regardless, I like a little barnyard in my reds! The fruit and animal aromas found a lift from surprising but complimentary aromas of fresh wintergreen.
On the palate, initially grippy tannins smooth out like the crash of a wave against the shore followed by the water’s slow retreat back to sea. Perhaps an overly poetic comparison but I was in Bodrum after all! Mouthwatering and crunch acid were set off by initial minty flavors, mid-palate fruit and savory black olives.
Of the two here I particularly enjoyed the Öküzgözü Shiraz. I’m looking forward to opening my bottle of the Garova Vineyards Shiraz Petit Verdot!