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HomeTurkish WineA Study in Terroir with Akın Gürbüz

A Study in Terroir with Akın Gürbüz

 


Akın Gürbüz grew up among grape vines. In his childhood he worked the harvest in his family’s vineyards. They did not make wine but sold the grapes to some of Turkey’s larger wineries. It was not until later in life that Gürbüz developed a love for wine. It was an introduction that not only began a love affair with wine but that would put him on his path.

After studying at UC Davis, working in California and News Zealand-based wineries, Tekirdağ-based winery Barbare brought him back to Turkey. Working at Barbare opened a new chapter for Gürbüz. He became a winemaking consultant for some of Turkey’s premiere boutique and small production wineries. However, soon consulting was not enough for him so he founded his own winery in 2015. He currently produces about 20,000 bottles a year, most of which he sells directly from his tasting room and restaurant. Gürbüz made his first wines with Sauvignon Blanc, Misket, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Shiraz; but each year brings new opportunities and changes to work with different grapes. Last year he released Kalecik Karası and Karalahana. Soon we will see Papazkarası and Cabernet Franc wines from him. 

Gürbüz’s ultimate goal is to make wine that reflects both the terroir and him as the winemaker. It is vital to him that the final wine has a sense of place; which is one of the reasons he produces more than one Sauvignon Blanc. In fact, he makes three. Two are single vineyard wines that express the difference in soil types (clay versus gravel) and micro climate. The third takes advantage of both worlds by blending the two. 

Gürbüz Gaziköy Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Tasting Notes

The Gaziköy Sauvignon Blanc was the first one of three I tried. It is in fact a blend of grapes from the Külümdere and Melendüzü vineyards.

A really stunning and aromatic nose here bursting with bright grapefruit, stone fruit, white pineapple, grass, and crushed quartz stones. Flavors were predominately citrus accompanied by hints of smokey mineral. Medium-bodied on the palate with 13.3% alcohol and a racy acidity that come together through Gürbüz’s deft touch for a wine of elegance and finesse.

Gürbüz Melendüzü Sauvignon Blanc 2017 Tasting Notes

One of Gürbüz’s single vineyard wines, this Sauvignon Blanc comes from the clayey soils of his Melendüzü vineyard in Gaziköy. With layers of hard pan clay the roots cannot penetrate and clay’s natural water retention and coolness, the result is a wine lighter in style than both the blend (above) and the Külümdere (below) single vineyard.  Lighter, but no less delightful. 

Lots of bright citrus on the nose, lemon peel, and wet stone. Zippy and lively on the palate with flavors that reflected the nose but with touches of kaffir lime leaves. Medium-light bodied with 12% alcohol. I really loved the mouthfeel on this one; particularly the way acidity wrapped around the sides of my tongue.

Gürbüz Külümdere Sauvignon Blanc 2017 Tasting Notes 

From the more gravelly soils of his Külümdere vineyard, where the vine can penetrate deeply and the ground retains warmth from the sun, comes the richer of the two single vineyard wines. 

Like the Melendüzü, the nose revealed lots of citrus, but in a warmer way, like lemon curd. Hints of more tropical fruits and smokey minerality complimented the citrus. Sipping revealed lemon and grapefruit along with guava and mineral. With 13.3% alcohol it felt weightier and rounder in the mouth with longer and more pronounced finish. 

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